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Horne Lake

International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Vancouver Island
Warning Access Issue: DetailsDrop down

Description

Some of the best sport climbing in western Canada is to be found at Horne Lake. Climbing at Horne Lake is a sensitive issue! In the past it has been officially closed. Now locals seem open to climbing but be respectful. Please be very discrete and respect to the locals as they hold the key to ongoing future access! Pack out ALL waste and garbage. Please keep the noise down and do not make it obvious that you are there! DO NOT CAMP in the clear cut or near the the climbs. Camping is available at the Horn Lake Adventure Camp just down the road. Please do not park on the road! Drive up into the clear cut, 7.5km from when you turn right onto the road that goes around the lake (if you reach the big boulder by the road and the caving place, you've gone too far), below the cliff and park there. No problem with a small car (2wd) There is ample parking available. Caution: Watch for ticks in the Spring!

Getting There

From Nanaimo, get on the highway northbound (Hwy. 19). After 50 km, look for the Provincial Park signs at the Horne Lake Exit Exit #75. Turn left off the highway and follow the signs for 12 km along the gravel road. Follow signs for the "Horn Lake Caves" Continue past cabins along the lake until you come to an unmistakably large cliff on your right, about 7.5km. Drive up into the clear cut and park there. The trail leads off left and up into the trees. A 15min strenuous hike will deposit you at the climbs. The first split in the trail appears after 10min, if you go left, you will reach the boss wall. If you go right you will continue up the the rest of the sectors. The second split in the trail comes just below the amphitheatre. If you go left you will come to the "Century Wall", "Lama Ledge", and the "Easter egg wall". If you continue right up the trail, you will reach the "Amphitheatre", which is to the left the last time the trail forks. If you then continue past the amphitheatre to the right, you will come to "Stage Right" and then finally to the "Orange Wall".

Routes from Left to Right

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Daddy's Girl
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 2
Ahead By a Century
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Quarter Century Girl
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Storm Troopers
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Code of Honor
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Smooth Bore
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 2
Dinosaur Highway
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Wart Hog
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Jesus Save the Pushers
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Plastic Jesus
Sport
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
 1
ADATO
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Velvet Elvis
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 0
Driven
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
Globetrotters
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Addicted to War
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 2
Fast Cat
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 16
You Enjoy Myself
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Subdivisions
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Moonraker
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 1
Creature of the Mist
Sport 5 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Bobby Lust
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Daddy's Girl
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Ahead By a Century
 2
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Quarter Century Girl
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Storm Troopers
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Code of Honor
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Smooth Bore
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Dinosaur Highway
 2
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
Wart Hog
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Jesus Save the Pushers
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Plastic Jesus
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
ADATO
 1
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b Sport
Velvet Elvis
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Driven
 0
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
Globetrotters
 3
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
Addicted to War
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Fast Cat
 2
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
You Enjoy Myself
 16
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Subdivisions
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Moonraker
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Creature of the Mist
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 5 pitches
Bobby Lust
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Horne Lake in all of its splendor
[Hide Photo] Horne Lake in all of its splendor
Climber on Mike's Alpine Route
[Hide Photo] Climber on Mike's Alpine Route
Will on bucket list, 5.9
[Hide Photo] Will on bucket list, 5.9

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] looking to try out the climbing at Horne Lake sometime in the next couple weeks (between May 20-30). Is there a good chance I'll find climbing partners there if i just show up alone? Anyone want to check it out with me? May 15, 2015
[Hide Comment] How strenuous is the hike? Could an average 5 year old do it? Jan 20, 2017
[Hide Comment] Hey Aimiee,
The hike is not that bad but the hang is not that kid friendly in spots. Traversing rope hand lines over cliffs.
Kevin Feb 1, 2017
Jerimiah Gentry
Eugene, or
[Hide Comment] Aimee does not have the avg 5yo. :) But yeah hand lines over cliffs don't sound kid friend. Jun 17, 2017
[Hide Comment] I don't know how often people read these comments, but I would like to voice some concern about access at Horne Lake. Today we were climbing (Sunday) and there was a super loud group at the Amphitheater. One guy was yelling excessively while he was climbing and then they proceeded to play music super loud until I yelled at them (I was at the crag below, so I had to yell to be heard) to turn it down. Some Nanaimo locals said that guy climbs at the gym there and is loud in the gym too. I was hoping maybe some locals who read this might find a way to talk to the guy about how sensitive the access is to Horne and maybe gently suggest he could consider that when climbing there. I would love to hear anyone's thoughts on this matter. It would be shame to see that place closed down because of this guy. Thanks! Jul 8, 2018