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Elevation: 7,500 ft
GPS: 32.42506, -110.75318
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 53,059 total · 439/month
Shared By: Matt Fowls on Apr 20, 2014
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Gandalf's Gorge and the boulders surrounding the River Boulder are a much closer option for those unwilling to trek the miles out to the Wilderness of Rocks. The approaches vary between five (River Boulder) and twenty (Gollum's) minutes from the parking lot. More bouldering in southern Arizona can be found at oldpueblobouldering.com/.

Color Code: The color code for the topos is as follows:

VB-V2: Green
V3-V5: Blue
V6-V9: Orange
V10-Above: Red
Project: Yellow

Stars: In contemplating the quality of these climbs, I’ve resorted to the (more) objective standards articulated by Brian Capps, Matt Wilder, & Jamie Emerson. Because the rock quality here tends to be crumbly and sharp, there are few climbs that get more than one star--—if even that. The 8B Boulder, Dragon’s Den, and Gollum’s are noteworthy exceptions.

Here are some of the determinative factors under the system used:
•Obvious start hold
•Landing
•Rock quality (Including chipping or gluing)
•Contrivance/Traverse
•Setting
•History (though an absence would never detract)

Here are some factors that are irrelevant under the system by way of their overly subjective nature:
•Movement
•Style
•Difficulty

Getting There Suggest change

From the River Boulder, follow the obvious trail (Sunset Trail) just above the River Boulder along the hillside (above the streambed) to parallel the streambed from above. Continue through a slight left turn that interrupts the trailÂ’s parallel of the stream. After making the slight left turn, turn right and drop down the hillside into the canyon back toward the streambed. The trail will become faint, but still visible. Take the trail along the canyon floor and then veer left upon nearing the stream. (The whole stream/canyon veers left). Even if you lose the trail, hiking down the stream will get you to the boulders.

A couple photos below display the turn off to drop down into the canyon from the Sunset Trail.

55 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Gandalf's Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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