AKA "Mother Scary's", it lives up to the reputation!

The first thing you need to know is that the routes are good, really good. The next should be self-evident: it's steep. Well, the Space Face and the West Face are. In fact, they're really steep. Third, it's committing. All routes are accessed by abseil, and are very tidal. You can expect to be stay dry at the bottom for about 2 1/2 hours either side of low tide.  Fourth, the area is divided into four areas, each with its own character: Western Face, Great Wall, South Face and Space Face.  At low tide AND CALM SEAS the South Face rap from an obvious block provides access for all four areas.  (I can attest that calm seas are essential to a safe experience in this zone.). 

There's too many classics to list in the description, but Rock Idol (E1) is a must, as is Brazen Buttress at E2. The latter is only vertical, but be prepared for a good pump! Deep Space (E2) is an unusual route, and Zeppelin (E3) is outrageously steep. Anything on the Space Face is worth doing (and steep).