Stackpole and Lydstep
> United Kingdom
The most Easterly region of the Pembrokeshire coastline, covering from Broad Haven to Tenby. The rock is uniformly excellent (well, it's Pembroke: what do you expect?), as are the routes.
Crags such as Mother Carey's Kitchen and Mowing Word are truly world-class, featuring steep, intimidating climbing on some inspiring lines. That's not to say everything is hard: there are many routes of easier grade (and angle), consistently as good, and offering the same sea-cliff experience.
Add to this the beautiful coastal environment, with perfect sandy beaches and pristine coves, and you will want to return again and again. After all, with over 1000 routes in the latest definitive guide, you're not going to run out of rock to climb!
As with the rest of Pembroke, the rock is limestone. For the most part it is very solid, having taken thousands of years of the worst the sea can throw at it, the loose bits are long gone! Just beware of some unstable blocks on the topouts (out of reach of the sea). The friction is great, as there is not enough traffic to polish the routes, and the coastal environment seems to keep the surface rough. Take a comprehensive set of nuts to protect most of the routes.
For areas around Stackpole, approach from Pembroke along the B4319, signposted towards MOD Castlemartin/Castlemartin Range/Bosherton. Turn left off this towards Bosherton, and then left again just after passing the St. Govans Inn. Follow this road to the National Trust car park at the end. The climbing areas are approached from here by walking East along the Coast path.
Most of the areas at the Lydstep end are approached from the A4139 East from Pembroke, or the A478 to Tenby then A4319 West.
Rock Idol, Mother Carey's Kitchen, Pembroke, Wales