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Old Castle Bouldering
California
> San Diego County
> N San Diego County
> Old Castle
Access Issue: This great North County Crag is located on the boundary of partial lots for sale, private property and public land.
Details
Due to its location Old Castle Crag is around private lots of land primarily old avocado groves. As of now current land managers have no issues with access to this Crag. Respect land owners keep a low profile and most importantly clean up any trash, you pack out what you pack in. Thanks and Enjoy.
Description
Old Castle is home to one of the finest boulder fields in San Diego County. There is a great John Gill quote that says some of the best Boulder problems in the world are the ones that are right off the road. If that is the case these are definitely some of the greatest.
Large quantity of geometric boulders scattered across the hillside with highball futuristic problems for days. Featured in several climbing videos, some of the greatest modern day boulders have all visited and enjoyed the great problems that exist in the surrounding Cirques!!!
Getting There
Take Oldcastle Rd., East approximately 1 mile from the I-15 freeway. The boulders will become very obvious on your left side, the north side of the road. Park anywhere along the side of the road walk up to first roadside boulders and go from there. A series of great trails and landings have been built through the years by local climbers to help further the establishment of this great Bouldering area!
[Hide Photo] Sloper problem on the back of the McQueen Boulder
[Hide Photo] Nico checking out this nice V3 face problem on the fourth boulder up the trail.
Southern California
Las Vegas, NV
Lone Pine Ca.
I struggled long and hard with the idea of ever introducing such a great and questionable spot to the rest of the community, rather share it with the so-called masses. It was never my intention to step on anyone's toes or exploit such a beautiful place but yes it is a tad selfish to keep such a gem to ourselves. Basically if it wasn't me it would be the next goober down the line to do so and I tried to share it with our community in the most noble of ways possible.
What I don't think a lot of people realize a big part of the art of climbing is sharing the experience and stoke with others. That is definitely one of the main purposes of such a wonderful site like Mountain Project.
I am more than glad to take the bouldering off of the Old Castle Mountain project site if enough people get there panties in a bunch. My main focus and objectives was to expose the super badass and awesome roped routes that I have worked on and projected for the last decade and a half.
Remember have fun be safe and climb strong. Any and all contributions are greatly appreciated.
Mountain Project "Used By Many, Contributed By Few"!!! Apr 12, 2014
Las Vegas, NV
With the popularity of bouldering and its social nature, the bouldering here is going to be the main attraction with the ropes coming second. Not due to the quality of the rope climbing, but in regards to this generation of rock climbers. Rope climbers come as partners, boulders roll in crews and if I owned the house on the adjacent hill I'd be bummed to see a line of cars park along my fence.
With that said I'd like to hear more of your thoughts if you're inclined to share. As the local/vet of the area your opinions would be valued. Apr 12, 2014
San Diego, CA
Oside,CA
What I think the best solution would be is to post in the description about the parking. Try and make the community respect the area, letting them know if it does get messy it could mean that this spot is off limits. I've personally parked on the boulder field side of the street several times with no problems. Also there are a few pullouts that can be used. Apr 14, 2014
Oceanside, Ca
I have climbed here for the last 10 years, cleaned and developed stuff of my own, and shared beta with those interested but I have always appreciated that the access to a place like this is sensitive. Parking is scarce, most of the climbing is on private property, Native American art exists in close proximity to climbing. These are all things that could quickly create issues if not respected. Its noble to think people will respect these issues but it is also a bit ignorant. People, unfortunately even climbers are selfish and destructive, and as more come into the area there will be an impact. This area cannot absorb the impact like Mt Woodson, Santee, Mission Gorge or other areas that are better suited for large groups of people.
Even though bouldering is the focus, I'm of the opinion that if it is on private property and an increase in climber presence will be created by publicizing it, than this area as a whole should be removed. We have to think of the area not of ourselves. There are multiple areas throughout San Diego that have amazing climbing but are on private property, or have unique access issues. It is simply not appropriate to post an area like that on this site. Ive struggled with this for years, but I have learned that if I want to know about an area I can ask around and put in some work to learn about it. This "effort" has created in me a sense of respect for these areas.
This has become a bit long winded but I think to summarize: Think of this area with some appreciation to the areas uniqueness. We all enjoy climbing here, have somehow figured out about it without it being posted, so does it help or harm the area to make it more well known? I think in this case it will harm the area.
Apr 14, 2014
CA
I feel that NDS, Ray, and Kris have hit the best points of interest. Apr 14, 2014
San Diego, CA