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Breitenberg Südwand

International > Europe > Germany > Frankenjura > Gößweinstein > Breitenberg

Description

As the name implies, this is a south-facing crag, and also at the south side of the hill. This aspect makes this a great pick for winter and cooler-weather climbing. In summer, the crag is somewhat shaded by the trees, and likely not as pleasant to climb at as some of the other crags in the vicinity.
The 15 climbs here are all easy, ranging in difficulty from UIAA 3+ to 7, and I'm not talking old school Kurt Albert 7. The rock is pretty solid and most of the routes in pretty good condition, considering the amount of traffic this crag sees.
For a quieter climbing experience, head just around the corner to Fellner Dolinenwand.

Getting There

From the parking spot, hike the southern side of the loop (to the right) for about 400m until you can see the path on the left leading straight up to the visible (profiled) crag.

The coordinates for the crag are roughly 49.766458, 11.349348.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 1
Nordlicht
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
R 2
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
Je t'aime
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Wasserman
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Pfeilerweg (Rechter Kantenweg)
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Jungfrau
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 2
Neigsabbt
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 1
April Flocke
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
Siebenschläfer
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 1
Löwe
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 1
Barbarelli Weg
Sport
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 1
Stier
Sport
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 1
Krebs
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Geil und Brüchig
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Nordlicht
 1
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
R 2
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Je t'aime
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wasserman
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pfeilerweg (Rechter Kantenweg)
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Jungfrau
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Neigsabbt
 2
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
April Flocke
 1
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Siebenschläfer
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Löwe
 1
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Barbarelli Weg
 1
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Stier
 1
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Sport
Krebs
 1
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
Geil und Brüchig
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The main portion of Breitenberg Südwand.
[Hide Photo] The main portion of Breitenberg Südwand.
Breitenberg Südwand as first seen from the main hiking trail. Fanny is hiking up the climber's trail which leads to the crag.
[Hide Photo] Breitenberg Südwand as first seen from the main hiking trail. Fanny is hiking up the climber's trail which leads to the crag.