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Dragonerwand

International > Europe > Germany > Frankenjura > Frankendorfer Kletter…

Description

This crag has a pretty good range of difficulty, height, and quality of rock. The routes climb features instead of depending on pockets, which is rather typical of the rock around Bamberg. The range of difficulty on this crag (which is actually the right side of the Dragonerwand) is from 5+ to 8- on the UIAA scale, which translates roughly to 5.7-5.11c. The height varies from about 12m up to 20m. And the stone quality varies from very good to extremely friable, so watch out for falling rocks and consider wearing a helmet.
After climbing, head into Frankendorf for some good food at Gasthaus Saffer.

Getting There

From Frankendorf, travel towards Tiefenhöchstadt and park in the little spot on the left 500m after the end of town and immediately before the little bridge in front of a shed. Walk back on the street for about 80m and head up the forest road on the right. Follow this uphill for 600m until you see an obvious path on the left which is flat and crosses below the crag. Follow this 200m and head uphill to the route of your choice.

Translation

The name may be somewhat misleading. It actually translates to "Dragoon's Wall".

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Schusterplattn
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
Dächlesverschneidung
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
Borschertweg
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Schusterplattn
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Dächlesverschneidung
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Borschertweg
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport