Elevation: 1,705 ft
GPS: 42.132, -74.084 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 48,896 total · 539/month
Shared By: Jeffrey Dunn on Feb 12, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Jeffrey Dunn

Description

Platte Clove is one of the most popular (and thus busiest) ice climbing areas in the Catskills. To protect this resource please pay special attention to the parking situation and respect the private property rights of the local landowners. It is easy to envision access issues becoming more difficult considering the amount of climber traffic this area sees. Due to the limited parking (in the hikers lot, do not park at the end of the road), it is essential for groups to carpool when possible. Please take all elements of your impact on the area seriously and do the little things that will help promote a more pleasant atmosphere and climbing experience for everyone.

The Devil's Kitchen is known for its easy access and proximity to the road. Climbers will find excellent moderate to difficult ice lines and mixed climbing routes. The Kitchen is only one of several closely situated ice/rock bands, but generally they are separate areas that are best accessed via a different approaches. As you descend past the Kitchen, you will find Bridalveil Falls on the right side, above which is Plattekill Falls and further down the ravine is Japanese Falls. Above these waterfalls, higher on the walls of the ravine, are found the Light Side and the Dark Side areas. Named based on the amount of sun they get on a normal winter day, the Light Side comes in rarely and goes out quickly. The Dark SIde has both upper and lower sections which have become decidedly more popular in recent years as the number of climbers has increased.

The Black Chasm requires an approximate 40 minute approach which mostly follows a well traveled hiking trail until one has to drop down and left into the ravine. Depending on conditions, you may be rewarded with some of the hardest pure ice leads in the Catskills and, for those so inclined, there are mixed climbing opportunities as well.

Getting There

To get to Platte Clove, take exit 20 off of the NYS Thruway and head up towards Hunter Mountain. You are looking to get on Route 32 North (if coming from the south, you will make a left after the tollbooth and then a right after the overpass, if coming from the north you will make a right directly after the tollbooth onto 32). If you generally follow the road (bearing left at all the major intersections) you will eventually find yourself driving sharply uphill through the Katterskill Clove to the Catskill Plateau (this path will take you from 32N to 32A N to 23A). At the light after driving through downtown Tannersville, turn left onto Route 16 and follow the major road all the way to its end (please note that you cannot approach from the south, Platte Clove Rd south of the Devil's Kitchen is closed in the winter). The first parking you will encounter is along the right side of the road, closely situated to a hiking trail that quickly crosses a bridge visible through the woods. Please make sure not to leave strange spaces between cars and pull as far off the road as safely possible. A couple hundred feet further you will find a driveway on the left which accesses the hikers parking lot across the road from the Devil's Kitchen. Again, pay attention to your parking, there are both climbers and hikers using this lot and it will fill up on a busy weekend. If you go a little further you will get to the snow plow turn around where the road ends. Do not park anywhere in the turnaround or near the private driveways.

40 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Platte Clove

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3-4
 22
Bridal Veil Falls
Trad, TR, Ice
WI3
 10
Plattekill Falls
Ice
WI3+
 5
Devil’s Chandelier
TR, Ice
WI4-
 17
3rd Corner
Ice
WI4
 15
2nd Corner
Ice
WI3
 8
Black Chasm Falls
Ice
WI5- M5
 7
Purgatory
Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice
WI4+ M7
 3
Dream a Little Dream
Trad, Mixed, Ice
WI4+ M6-
 11
Smear
TR, Mixed, Ice
WI4+
 8
1st Corner
Trad, Ice
WI4
 4
Green Pillar
Ice
WI4 M6+
 3
Chopping Block
Trad, Mixed, Ice
M7
 4
50 Feet of Hard
Sport, Mixed
M6
 4
Route of Good Intention
Trad, Mixed
WI4
 4
Lightsaber
TR, Ice 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bridal Veil Falls Devil's Kitchen
 22
WI3-4 Trad, TR, Ice
Plattekill Falls Devil's Kitchen
 10
WI3 Ice
Devil’s Chandelier Devil's Kitchen
 5
WI3+ TR, Ice
3rd Corner Devil's Kitchen
 17
WI4- Ice
2nd Corner Devil's Kitchen
 15
WI4 Ice
Black Chasm Falls Black Chasm
 8
WI3 Ice
Purgatory Devil's Kitchen
 7
WI5- M5 Trad, Sport, Mixed, Ice
Dream a Little Dream Devil's Kitchen
 3
WI4+ M7 Trad, Mixed, Ice
Smear Devil's Kitchen
 11
WI4+ M6- TR, Mixed, Ice
1st Corner Devil's Kitchen
 8
WI4+ Trad, Ice
Green Pillar Dark Side
 4
WI4 Ice
Chopping Block Devil's Kitchen
 3
WI4 M6+ Trad, Mixed, Ice
50 Feet of Hard Upper Devil’s K… > Southeast Wall
 4
M7 Sport, Mixed
Route of Good Intention Upper Devil’s K… > Southeast Wall
 4
M6 Trad, Mixed
Lightsaber Dark Side - Lower Tier
 4
WI4 TR, Ice 2 pitches
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