Elevation: 1,482 ft
GPS: 35.104, -85.631 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 82,348 total · 887/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Jan 27, 2014 · Updates
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

Description

[ACCESS ISSUE] The Moat and Apes on Acid areas of Castle Rock are currently closed due to peregrine falcon nesting. Please do not proceed east of the Drifters area until further notice.

Castle Rock is the obvious, orange bluff looming over the town of Jasper, TN. This excellent, South-facing sandstone crag is a great Winter crag which hosts almost 100 sport and trad routes ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.14a, with most of the routes falling between 5.11a and 5.12d. The climbs are typically 80-120 feet and involve blocky features, sidepulls, slopers, and technical sequences on slabby to slightly overhanging rock. The harder routes on the Apes Wall tend to be a bit steeper with roof encounters towards the top.

Most of the routes were established in the 80's and 90's, but since it sits on private land, it was closed for almost a decade until a verbal agreement was reached, and a lease was sign by the Southeastern Climbers Coalition(SCC) with help from the Access Fund in 2005.

IMPORTANT!!!
You are a guest on private land. Please take a moment to read the sign at the parking area. Some of the important rules include...

1. Obey the 20MPH speed limit on the dirt road.
2. Do not go into the rock yard across the road from the parking area.
3. Text your make and model to Ms. Phillips(the land owner) at 423-421-9760.
4. If nature calls while you are climbing, stay 200 feet from the stream that flows from Castle Rock and do not tamper with hoses that run down the hill. These supply Ms. Phillips with her water.
5. No fires at the crag.
6. No Dogs allowed.
7. Keep noise levels to a minimum.
8. Pack out trash.
9. If SCC parking area is full, do not park.
10. Never block roads or driveways.
11. No camping at Castle Rock. The nearest camping is at Foster Falls.
12. Do not stay past sunset. The gate will be locked after dark.

Castle Rock is accessible through a multitude of partnerships including SCC but not exclusively. It is owned by the Tennessee River Gorge Trust who allows the actual climbing. Please read below (pasted from trgt.org/castle-rock)

While the Tennessee River Gorge Trust owns the property, including the climbing bluff itself, we added greater strength to its protection by partnering with the Land Trust for Tennessee granting them a Conservation Easement. The parking area and access trail to Castle Rock was built by Wild Trails and is leased and managed by the Southeastern Climber's Coalition. The Access Fund was instrumental in nurturing these partnerships and providing advice throughout the process. All of these partnerships make Castle Rock possible and highlight the collaborative spirit between Chattanooga's non-profit organizations and our community members.

If you can, show your appreciation for access to this crag by volunteering for a trail day, or donate a few dollars.

For more information on Castle Rock visit The SCC website at
seclimbers.org/modules.php?…;pa=showpage&pid=33.

Getting There

From Chattanooga, TN.

Take I-24 West towards Nashville for about 20 miles- passing Nickajack Lake. Just past a huge fireworks store in the median take Hwy 28 North for a few miles to the offramp for Jasper. Go left, under a bridge and into downtown Jasper. Take a right at a light by the courthouse onto Hwy 41 towards Tracy City. After 1.2 miles take a veer left, staying on Hwy 41 which takes you uphill.

A couple of miles after veering left, look for an obvious stone sign that says Greystone on the right. Follow this dirt road until you see a small parking area on the right across from a rock yard.

47 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 54
Fun Employed
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 59
Orange Peel
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Mosaic
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Brown Streak
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 9
Kingpin
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 18
Streaker
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 30
Swindled
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 60
Wish I Was Trad
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Cottonmouth
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
 27
Predator
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 5
Rad Line
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 8
Copperhead
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 3
Psycho Spasm
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 12
Escapism
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 3
Creature Feature
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fun Employed Point Butress(Main Wall)
 54
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Orange Peel Point Butress(Main Wall)
 59
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mosaic Moat
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Brown Streak Point Butress(Main Wall)
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Kingpin Point Butress(Main Wall)
 9
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Streaker Point Butress(Main Wall)
 18
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Swindled Point Butress(Main Wall)
 30
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Wish I Was Trad Predator Wall
 60
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Cottonmouth Predator Wall
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Predator Predator Wall
 27
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 Sport
Rad Line Predator Wall
 5
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Copperhead Predator Wall
 8
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Psycho Spasm Bonny & Clyde Wall- A…
 3
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Escapism Predator Wall
 12
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Creature Feature Apes on Acid Wall
 3
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
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