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Routes in Upper West Side

12th Man, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Baby Anarchist T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Beast Mode T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Enemy of the State S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
First Light S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fixin' To Die T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Honeycomb Arete T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Honeycomb Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Indian Paintbrush T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Live Free or Die T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lost Boys T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
MVP S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mariposa S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Metamorphosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Neverland S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purple Rose, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Sage, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Skin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wings Of Desire S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elevation: 1,593 ft
GPS: 48.642, -119.448 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 2,142 total, 45/month
Shared By: applewood on Jan 17, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick
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Description

The narrow cliff with a single pine on top, at the right (N) end of the South Canyon's east face (from about where the fence meets the face and north).

The "Left Side" is the face left of the main chimney/crack and has two long interesting routes.

The lower half of the "Main Wall" is steeper and cleaner and offers consistently good climbing on great rock. The upper half is not as consistent but offers a couple of full length pitches worth doing.

The far right end of the lower cliff is the low angled "Anarchy Wall" which has three easy climbs suitable for beginner leaders. They all share the same top anchor.

The stair-stepped wall that sits in the middle of the gully on the right (between the Upper West Side face and the SE Buttress), just right of the trail to the top ("Gully Wall") has several enjoyable climbs on each of its three tiers.

Note - be alert for rattlesnakes along the base, especially at the south end. There is probably a den near there under the overhanging alcove or in the scree slope further south. They make good neighbors if you stay out of their way, but dogs and small children may need a leash...

Getting There

Follow the Main Canyon trail and cross the open space to the cliff base. It's a 20 minute walk from the south parking area (about a mile) to the base of the cliff. Approach the top by the gully on the right.

19 Total Climbs

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