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Umbrella Rock Rock Climbing
Routes in Umbrella Rock
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7 Fathom Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bumbershoot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Channabis Induced Amnesia S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Cigarette Induced Gravitation (CIG) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dinosaur Balls T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drew's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Life on the Mississippi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Little Napoleon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lucky Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Obstinator S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Open Wide S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Oubliette S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Out Of The Dank V1 5 |
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Out Of The Dank (sit start) V2+ 5+ |
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Probrecito S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Slice Of Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Slip Of The Tip S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Taintasoreass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Terra-Dactyl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tree Hugger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Elevation: | 1,166 ft |
| GPS: |
48.35234, -122.0908 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 19,986 total · 168/month |
| Shared By: | wakaranai on Dec 21, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
Umbrella Rocks(s) are two glacial erratic boulders that settled near what is now known as Lake Cavanaugh rd. Between the two boulders there are about 15 pitches with most of them rated in the 5.11-5.12 range. All but one of these pitches are bolted face climbs so 12 draws should do the trick for gear.
Umbrella Rock is a scrappy little crag that will always be under utilized. It has some sharp rock that is chossy in spots.
With that said there is also some super fun climbs, especially Slip Of The Tip, Bumbershoot, 7 Fathom arete, and Oubliette. All of the other routes are worth doing as well.
Umbrella Rock is a scrappy little crag that will always be under utilized. It has some sharp rock that is chossy in spots.
With that said there is also some super fun climbs, especially Slip Of The Tip, Bumbershoot, 7 Fathom arete, and Oubliette. All of the other routes are worth doing as well.
Getting There
The terrain here changes on an annual basis so don't expect it to be an easy find the first time around. Constant clear cuts, old clear cuts that have since grown back, and lack of consistant traffic keep this a mild thrash to find.
As of April 2020 the trail has become a bit overgrown due to blowdown in 2018. BR02 is no longer marked but approaches the same and is in plenty good shape.
I5 north feom Seattle 62 miles to Mount Vernon and take the College Way exit. Drive east on College Way for 3.6 miles to a round a bout at the Big Lake Grocery. Continue east on hwy 9 south for 5.4 miles and turn left on Lake Cavanaugh Rd. Drive Lake Cavanaugh Rd for 7.2 miles and park at a concrete barrier on the opposite side of the road (left when driving east).
Walk from here passing the concrete barrier on its right side. Follow the remnants of that rd passing another concrete barrier, then straight and then veering up and right. Look for a pile of concrete and follow that fork for a couple minutes until the faint trail to Umbrella can be seen on the right.
To get to Calendar Butte, don't turn right as for faint trail to Umbrella, instead continue up the road for 30 minutes and follow newly installed flagging to the base of that cliff. (See Calendar Butte)
As of April 2020 the trail has become a bit overgrown due to blowdown in 2018. BR02 is no longer marked but approaches the same and is in plenty good shape.
I5 north feom Seattle 62 miles to Mount Vernon and take the College Way exit. Drive east on College Way for 3.6 miles to a round a bout at the Big Lake Grocery. Continue east on hwy 9 south for 5.4 miles and turn left on Lake Cavanaugh Rd. Drive Lake Cavanaugh Rd for 7.2 miles and park at a concrete barrier on the opposite side of the road (left when driving east).
Walk from here passing the concrete barrier on its right side. Follow the remnants of that rd passing another concrete barrier, then straight and then veering up and right. Look for a pile of concrete and follow that fork for a couple minutes until the faint trail to Umbrella can be seen on the right.
To get to Calendar Butte, don't turn right as for faint trail to Umbrella, instead continue up the road for 30 minutes and follow newly installed flagging to the base of that cliff. (See Calendar Butte)
Classic Climbing Routes at Umbrella Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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