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Elevation: 6,382 ft 1,945 m
GPS: 39.35914, -104.76999
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 27,361 total · 185/month
Shared By: Andy Librande on Dec 17, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures with 2025 closure until Aug. 31, 2025 DetailsDrop down
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Description Suggest change

This extensive area covers all of the boulders on the Northwest side of the park including the Electric Kite Wall, Five and Dime Boulders, and many other quality blocks spread across the hillside. Many quality problems with quite a bit of variety are in this secluded area of the park. The concentration at each boulder is generally high; however, many of the boulders have some distance between them along the hillside. No formal trails are in this area, so the only traffic is deer and fellow pebble-wrestlers.

The area is generally laid out as this: 

*the bottom of the hill lies the 7-11 Boulders and the Slab.

*the pyramid is a large, hueco boulder in a shape of a pyramid that sits high on the hill and is a good landmark to aim for to get to the other areas.

*the Electric Kite Wall is one of the destinations of the area, and all around it there are a number of boulders with great problems. From the pyramid feature, this wall is ~100 yards North along the cliffline.

Bushwhacking will occur.

You can reach the Fountainbleau area from here if you follow the cliffline south until you hit that cluster of boulders. It is not the most recommended thing to do, but it is possible.

Getting There Suggest change

Enter through the West Entrance (which is also commonly called the north entrance).

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Park in the 1st parking lot to your left just after you enter called the Lucas Homestead Parking Lot (remnants of an old stone structure prominently stand over the parking lot).

Hike south along the dirt road (as if you were heading towards the other parking lots). Once to the large grassy field, hike into that and aim for the far leftside. At this point, the pyramid boulder high on the cliff should come into view, head towards that to get to the Electric Kite Wall and most of the boulders, otherwise the 7-11 Boulders sit uphill of of the grassy-field on the far south side.

75 Total Climbs

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Location: Five and Dime Area Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Five and Dime Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 8
Woke Right
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 6
Checkerboard Square
Boulder
V5- 6C
 9
Toy Machine
Boulder
V5 6C
 6
Trough Arete
Boulder
V5 6C
 4
Disco Volante
Boulder
V5 6C
 10
Lifting the Veil
Boulder
V6 7A
 5
Break the Chains
Boulder
V6 7A
 11
Mellow
Boulder
V6-7 7A+
 4
Kite Arete
Boulder
V8 7B
 11
Carmello
Boulder
V8+ 7B+
 6
Hollywood Squares
Boulder
V8-9 7B+
 7
Hoagie in Heaven aka The Crystal…
Boulder
V9- 7C
 8
SubZero
Boulder
V9+ 7C
 4
Bleeding Heart
Boulder
V10 7C+
 4
Pitter Patter
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Woke Right SubZero Boulder
 8
V3 6A Boulder
Checkerboard Square Checkerboard Boulder
 6
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Toy Machine SubZero Boulder
 9
V5- 6C Boulder
Trough Arete Five & Dime Boulders
 6
V5 6C Boulder
Disco Volante Gully Boulder
 4
V5 6C Boulder
Lifting the Veil Understanding Scale Area
 10
V5 6C Boulder
Break the Chains Five & Dime Boulders
 5
V6 7A Boulder
Mellow Carmello Boulder
 11
V6 7A Boulder
Kite Arete Electric Kite Wall
 4
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Carmello Carmello Boulder
 11
V8 7B Boulder
Hollywood Squares Checkerboard Boulder
 6
V8+ 7B+ Boulder
Hoagie in Heaven aka The Cr… Electric Kite Wall
 7
V8-9 7B+ Boulder
SubZero SubZero Boulder
 8
V9- 7C Boulder
Bleeding Heart SubZero Boulder
 4
V9+ 7C Boulder
Pitter Patter Electric Kite Wall
 4
V10 7C+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Five and Dime Area »

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