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Five and Dime Area Bouldering
| Elevation: | 6,382 ft |
| GPS: |
39.35914, -104.76999 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 26,131 total · 220/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Librande on Dec 17, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Castlewood Canyon: there is a new closure for nesting raptors this year: Five and Dime will be closed March 1st through July 31st. If you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me, Rachel Chaffee (Park Ranger) at dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.us or by phone at 303-688-5242.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Access Issue: Closure Notice
Details
Per LucasSpiegel: as of April 2020, the park rangers put up a sign in the field stating that The Five and Dime area is temporarily closed.
Description
This extensive area covers all of the boulders on the Northwest side of the park including the Electric Kite Wall, Five and Dime Boulders, and many other quality blocks spread across the hillside. Many quality problems with quite a bit of variety are in this secluded area of the park. The concentration at each boulder is generally high; however, many of the boulders have some distance between them along the hillside. No formal trails are in this area, so the only traffic is deer and fellow pebble-wrestlers.
The area is generally laid out as this:
*the bottom of the hill lies the 7-11 Boulders and the Slab.
*the pyramid is a large, hueco boulder in a shape of a pyramid that sits high on the hill and is a good landmark to aim for to get to the other areas.
*the Electric Kite Wall is one of the destinations of the area, and all around it there are a number of boulders with great problems. From the pyramid feature, this wall is ~100 yards North along the cliffline.
Bushwhacking will occur.
You can reach the Fountainbleau area from here if you follow the cliffline south until you hit that cluster of boulders. It is not the most recommended thing to do, but it is possible.
The area is generally laid out as this:
*the bottom of the hill lies the 7-11 Boulders and the Slab.
*the pyramid is a large, hueco boulder in a shape of a pyramid that sits high on the hill and is a good landmark to aim for to get to the other areas.
*the Electric Kite Wall is one of the destinations of the area, and all around it there are a number of boulders with great problems. From the pyramid feature, this wall is ~100 yards North along the cliffline.
Bushwhacking will occur.
You can reach the Fountainbleau area from here if you follow the cliffline south until you hit that cluster of boulders. It is not the most recommended thing to do, but it is possible.
Getting There
Enter through the West Entrance (which is also commonly called the north entrance).
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Location of major Bouldering Areas throughout Castlewood Canyon. This covers the major areas that have been developed and documented. Please let me know if anything is incorrect or needs updating. As of July, 2010. .
Park in the 1st parking lot to your left just after you enter called the Lucas Homestead Parking Lot (remnants of an old stone structure prominently stand over the parking lot).
Hike south along the dirt road (as if you were heading towards the other parking lots). Once to the large grassy field, hike into that and aim for the far leftside. At this point, the pyramid boulder high on the cliff should come into view, head towards that to get to the Electric Kite Wall and most of the boulders, otherwise the 7-11 Boulders sit uphill of of the grassy-field on the far south side.
Park in the 1st parking lot to your left just after you enter called the Lucas Homestead Parking Lot (remnants of an old stone structure prominently stand over the parking lot).
Hike south along the dirt road (as if you were heading towards the other parking lots). Once to the large grassy field, hike into that and aim for the far leftside. At this point, the pyramid boulder high on the cliff should come into view, head towards that to get to the Electric Kite Wall and most of the boulders, otherwise the 7-11 Boulders sit uphill of of the grassy-field on the far south side.
Classic Climbing Routes at Five and Dime Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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