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Areas in South Yuba River: 49 Crossing

Bolt Ladder 1 of 2 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cracked Slab 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Druid Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Eye of the Bunholder 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Giant Boulder Stack 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Katydid Rock (unofficial name) 1 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Kro's Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Lizard Sex 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Merit Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Misc problems 0 / 0 / 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
OW! 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Paradise Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pedestrian Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Villain Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Description

Bouldering on the Yuba is very season and weather dependent as many of the boulders have running water at the base. You can climb here through the winter on warmer days. It can be surprisingly warm in the sun, despite the frigid landscape. When the snow melts up river in the Spring, the starts of many routes go underwater but there are plenty that still can be climbed.

My friends and I are finding chalk all over the place, so we don't take naming our "first ascents" too seriously. Mostly for fun and categorization purposes. There is a welcoming spirit at the Yuba and plenty of new gems to discover. Hope to see some stronger climbers here as there are many hard, bold, high quality lines that remain to be climbed.

There is also lots of poison oak. Be careful, even if the plant doesn't have leaves on it, you can get it from the stalk. It should not be an issue if you familiarize yourself with what the vine/leaves look like, and keep alert.

Getting There

From Nevada City, follow Highway 49 North towards Downieville. The crossing is 7 miles from Nevada city. If parking lot is full, as it will often be on warm sunny weekends, park with consideration for other river visitors in pullouts along the side of the road. Trailhead begins on the North side of the old, retired bridge. Follow main trail to reach smaller trails that drop down to the river. Routes begin with Anniversary boulder, which can be seen from the bridge. Problems are organized from left to right, left referring to down river, and right referring to up river.

The main trail culminates at Hoight's Crossing, a sandy clearing with deep pools and a pebble beach. The river creates a channel here, flanked by a steep, craggy wall on the north side, and a smooth, low angle wall on the South side. Swim your way up the channel, traverse the steeper North side at 5.8, or scramble along the slabby South side at 4th/easy 5th class. Be careful, some of the rock is like glass and can be wet and slimey from drainage. Giant, featured boulders await above the mouth of the channel, as well as a super textured black wall on the North side that may be conducive to slab climbs. If you feel so inspired, please contact the community before breaking out the hardware. The Yuba is a sacred place to many, and bold, traditional ethics are in place.

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
This place is loaded with good bouldering problems! I saw chalk on a handful of very beautiful lines down river from the bridge. Sep 2, 2016
Alex McKenzie
Nevada city, CA
Alex McKenzie   Nevada city, CA
This is one of the best areas on MP. I do have one complaint, though. There are a few problems that have pictures but aren't put up on the site yet. It would be awesome if those could be added. If I got some information of the FA and stuff, maybe I could add them! Oct 29, 2017
David A
Boulder, CO
David A   Boulder, CO
A little ways before the bridge, there's a large blocky rock right off the road to the right (if you are traveling north-bound) that has a bolt ladder on it. This might be "Lizard Dome" as described in the photos, but I'm not 100% sure. Anybody have any info on this? Apr 12, 2018
Ray R  
Heading out to Lemke's Lagoon this weekend, will bring a crash pad. Anything up-stream that far, that anyone knows of? Jul 3, 2018 · Temporary Report
Alex McKenzie
Nevada city, CA
Alex McKenzie   Nevada city, CA
@David A
I don’t think so. I’ve heard lizard done is a ways upriver. I posted a photo of what you’re talking about a few months ago above, so check it out if you want to! Jul 3, 2018

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