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Areas in South Side Crags

Area 51 3 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
Brilliant Pebble, The 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Orange Wall 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Other Place, The 2 / 41 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 43
Elevation: 1,650 ft
GPS: 38.15, -80.927 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 37,119 total, 754/month
Shared By: camhead on Nov 27, 2013 with updates
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath
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Description

  • **LATELY THERE HAS BEEN A TREND OF PARKING DIRECTLY ON THE SHOULDER OF ROUTE 19. DO NOT PARK PAST THE SIGN THAT SAYS NO PARKING. THIS SIGN EXISTS TO ALLOW EMERGENCY VEHICLE ACCESS TO LOWER MEADOW. COUNT ON LOCAL LAW ENFORCEMENT TO START TOWING VEHICLES, AS THEY ARE SICK OF IT. DON'T MAKE CLIMBERS IN THE NEW RIVER GORGE LOOK BAD AS A USER GROUP. PLEASE HEED THIS WARNING.***

The "South Side" of the Meadow River is one of the most diverse areas in the entire NRG region, with climbs from 5.4 to 5.14, sport and trad, summer shade, and free camping. For this reason, it's been getting quite crowded over the last few years, and right now there are some access issues with the landowner (see "access issues" in this section before making a trip here).
South side crags access issue. Details
Writing in chalk Details

Getting There

  • **PRIOR ACCESS VIA PROPP'S RIDGE ROAD TO THE SOUTH SIDE CRAGS HAS BEEN CUT OFF BY LANDOWNERS. DO NOT TRY TO DRIVE IN THIS WAY. AT BEST YOU'LL HAVE TO TURN AROUND BECAUSE OF ROADBLOCKS- AT WORST YOU COULD JEOPARDIZE ACCESS Please view ACCESS ISSUES link above and the more detailed information here: NRAC Meadow River access info ***

This change has been in effect for a couple of years now, but this is still good information to those new to the New River region, or just those seeking to sample the South Side Meadow crags for the first time.

The best (however not most convenient) way to approach is to park in the same spot as the Lower Meadow crags- off Deitz Rd in a parking area- walk down to the river, cross and hit the path along the river from there. Alternatively, you can cross Highway 19 (thus crossing the river using the bridge) and hit the shoulder and follow the trail that leads to the path along the river. If you don't want to park at Deitz Rd, you can park along 19 just before the bridge (approach described in detail below), but do so at your own risk:

From Fayetteville, drive north on route 19 towards Summersville. Park on the shoulder just before the start of the meadow river bridge. A well worn trail should lead from the shoulder down to a nice flat trail along the river. Turn right at the base of the trail and hike upstream. You should pass a very distinct roadblock consisting of a few large boulders after about 30 minutes or more. Keep hiking - you will pass The Other Place on the right after a few minutes. You could take this this trail and hike along the cliff line to Area 51 or continue on the main trail for another 5-10 minutes, looking for another trailhead near large boulders. Total approach is about 2.5 miles.

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Side Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free Range Show Poodle
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beetle Byway
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scaphoid
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hundred Acre Wood
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Mexican Rodeo
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flaming Pellets
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Instant Gratification
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tiggers and Airplanes
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
U Boat
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Low Brow
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brown Star
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Depth Charge
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cage Match
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
The Project
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
One for the Gipper
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Free Range Show Poodle Area 51 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Beetle Byway Other Place 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Scaphoid Area 51 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Hundred Acre Wood Other Place 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
New Mexican Rodeo Other Place 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Flaming Pellets Other Place 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Instant Gratification Area 51 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tiggers and Airplanes Other Place 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
U Boat Other Place 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Low Brow Other Place 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Brown Star Brilliant Pebble 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Depth Charge Other Place 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Cage Match Area 51 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Project Area 51 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
One for the Gipper Brilliant Pebble 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
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