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Cortizone Corner

California > Northwest California

Description

This little roadside crag gets sun all day long and has a 30 second approach.
A series of small limestone bluffs with a few freshly bolted routes.
The rock is sharp on the fingers so might want to bring some tape.
Spend some time bouldering the many routes and variations on Lime Kiln Boulder located even closer to the road and easily top roped if you choose.

Getting There

The crag is right off the side of HWY 299, between Junction City and the North Fork of the Trinity river. The approach is less than a minute.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
 2
Poisonous Pendulum
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Ooze & Oz
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Punji Pit
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
The Taint
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
 2
Fetal Absorption
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 2
Fetal Absorption Direct
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
No Glove No Love
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Labor of Love
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 2
Labor Pains
Trad
V-easy 3
 2
Left Krackend
TR, Boulder
V0 4
 2
Stage Five Clinger
TR, Boulder
V1+ 5
 2
Doesn't Matter
TR, Boulder
V0-1 4+
 2
Cornerzone
TR, Boulder
V2- 5+
 2
The Runnels
TR, Boulder
V0+ 4+
 2
Stairway to Nothing
TR, Boulder
V-easy 3
 2
Faces
TR, Boulder
V1 5
 2
Lie Back Crack
TR, Boulder
V2 5+
 3
The Door
TR, Boulder
V2 5+
 3
Unhinged
TR, Boulder
V1 5
 3
Travolta's Chin
TR, Boulder
V3 6A
 1
Unknown
Boulder
V0 4 PG13
 2
Right Krackend
TR, Boulder
V1-2 5
 1
Dan's traverse
Boulder
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 6
Cortizone
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Poisonous Pendulum
 2
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Ooze & Oz
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Punji Pit
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Taint
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Fetal Absorption
 2
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
Fetal Absorption Direct
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
No Glove No Love
 2
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Labor of Love
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Labor Pains
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Left Krackend
 2
V-easy 3 TR, Boulder
Stage Five Clinger
 2
V0 4 TR, Boulder
Doesn't Matter
 2
V1+ 5 TR, Boulder
Cornerzone
 2
V0-1 4+ TR, Boulder
The Runnels
 2
V2- 5+ TR, Boulder
Stairway to Nothing
 2
V0+ 4+ TR, Boulder
Faces
 2
V-easy 3 TR, Boulder
Lie Back Crack
 2
V1 5 TR, Boulder
The Door
 3
V2 5+ TR, Boulder
Unhinged
 3
V2 5+ TR, Boulder
Travolta's Chin
 3
V1 5 TR, Boulder
Unknown
 1
V3 6A Boulder
Right Krackend
 2
V0 4 PG13 TR, Boulder
Dan's traverse
 1
V1-2 5 Boulder
Cortizone
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lime Kiln Boulder Front and right side
[Hide Photo] Lime Kiln Boulder Front and right side
Lime Kiln Boulder Left Side
[Hide Photo] Lime Kiln Boulder Left Side
the main prow
[Hide Photo] the main prow

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I took a jaunt up there today, the rock has significantly cleaned up since last time I climbed here a few years ago. Star thistle has grown on the hill since the fire, but the poison oak is still subdued from the fire. Seems the approach trail has worked its way in from the boulder as well. Looking good. Sep 1, 2019
David Stillman
Longmont, CO
[Hide Comment] The star thistle is gnarly so wear proper shoes for the 30 second approach, and the poison oak is growing back with a vengeance! Pulling the rope on Fetal Absorption put it directly in a plant, so keep an eye out. Jun 29, 2020