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Routes in Gladstone Peak

Lucky Strike T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3 R
Elevation: 13,913 ft
GPS: 37.848, -107.985 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Stiles on Nov 14, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Gladstone Peak is seldom climbed due to its proximity to three 14ers and loose rock (though all the rock in the area is loose). The standard route and easiest descent is the North Ridge. The upper third of the North Ridge is somewhat stout for a 'hike' (upper fourth class, maybe low grade fifth class). It is steep and loose; vigilance is prudent; I would not climb below others. As with other peaks in the area, once the angle rears to near vertical, the rock quality improves to accept gear. The East Ridge has been ascended at low fifth class. The West ridge would appear to connect to Mount Wilson but does not (perhaps a worthy outing - an ascent of the West ridge).

A fourth class pass exists between Gladstone Peak and Mount Wilson. The South ridge connects to Cross Mountain but has many difficult looking gendarmes and would seem to be untraversable. Neither the West or South ridges have recorded ascents. A large snowfield exists below the North face most all year long, no known routes on the North face, but it looks as if potential exists in three large, north-facing corners. The South face is quite intriguing from the summit of Mount Wilson, though no trails access the area south of Gladstone Peak.

Getting There

Both Navajo Basin and Bilk Basin provide easy access to the North Ridge of Gladstone. Several trailheads can get you there. Study a map and choose your own adventure. The closest trailhead is Wilson Mesa TH-Sunshine.

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