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Areas in Bear Mountain Cliff

Boulder Field 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Elevation: 790 ft
GPS: 44.156, -70.711 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,091 total · 67/month
Shared By: Mike Veazey on Nov 9, 2013
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons Details

Description

Southwest facing cliff face and boulder field located just south of the quaint hamlet of Waterford. The cliff face rises above a talus slope and overlooks scenic Bear Pond. There is a pleasant mix of bouldering, sport, traditional and ice climbing here. The rock is similar to other nearby Western Maine crags.

Getting There

From Portland take Route 95 to 302. Take 302 west towards North Conway. In Bridgton turn right onto Route 117. Take 117 to Route 37 (on the left). Follow 37 past the intersection of 35 to the shores of Bear Pond (on the left). Park at the boat ramp on the left. Either walk across the road from the boat launch and hike up the talus/boulder field or walk 200 yards up the road and look for a hiking trail on the right. Follow the hiking trail up to a faint climber's trail that runs over to the cliff.

Below added by R Hall, Adm. in Mar 2016:

From North Conway take Rt 302 to Fryeburg, then Rt 5 North to Lovell. At Lovell, take Rt 93 East to South Waterford; here take a hard right onto Rt 35 South. The cliff is about 1/2 to 3/4 mi. south. Parking pull out on the right by the pond.

The Wilcox Ice climbing guide indicates a few routes here, including a "3 pitch grade 3 chimney", but an exploration in Feb 2016 (low snow year, also warm) failed to find it. Not saying it isn't there, just saying it doesn't jump out at you while walking along the base from far right to far left. (facing the cliff)

Probably easier to find is the ice route done (well 98% "done") by Bob Parrott in 1992. Mixed pitch to a dagger of ice to "only snow over granite". He down-climbed the route.

A few photos are posted.

11 Total Climbs

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Photos

John Patrick
Denmark, Maine
John Patrick   Denmark, Maine
There are Peregrine Falcons nesting on the main face of Bear Mountain in Waterford. Maine doesn't close cliffs, but giving the birds a wide birth for a couple months is a good idea. The nest is near the middle of the main face. Thanks. May 12, 2017

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