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Routes in 5. Three Bears Wall

Baby Bear TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Bear Claw T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Goldilocks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Papa Bear T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Risky Bear T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 566 ft
GPS: 41.145, -74.165 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,516 total, 90/month
Shared By: Byron Igoe on Nov 6, 2013
Admins: SMarsh

Description

Shady area shielded by trees. Moderate slab with easy climbs. Fair amount of plant life growing on the rock.

Getting There

Hike in from Torne Valley Road, along the service road/trail. This wall is just to the left of the Tower Wall.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Three Bears Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Papa Bear
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Risky Bear
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Goldilocks
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Papa Bear 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Risky Bear 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Goldilocks 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad, TR
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Photos

Climbed in the Powerlinez for the first time this weekend; chose climbing at Three Bears Wall as a way to become familiar with the rock, the protection, the grading, etc.

Some notes:

- Lots of hollow rock, and flakes that should not have cams placed behind them. Many of the climbs here are easy (even for a first-time climber), but not necessarily well-protected. Many flared horizontals encountered - I bet offset-cams would've been great here.

- If you choose to lead, there's no need to bring up any static-line or webbing for a tree-anchor. There is a horizontal crack-system that extends throughout this section of the cliff, which eats gear of all sizes (purple to blue C4s were great). Just build a gear anchor, run your top-rope laps, and have your last climber clean the anchor and walk down (climber's left).

- Lots of dirty cracks here - Make sure that any pro you place is between two rock surfaces, and not between rock and a thick layer of dirt.

- Grades are probably about two grades easier than Gunks grades - A 5.4 here is probably roughly a Gunks a 5.2 .

Can't say how much this holds for any other walls in the area. Anyway, the climbs are easy, so just go and have fun - But I hope this information is helpful for any new leaders looking for a little extra beta. Jun 11, 2017

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