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Brean Down

International > Europe > United Kingdom > England > S West

Description

Brean Down is a small peninsula a short way South of Weston-Super-Mare, the last outcropping of the Mendip hills as they disappear into the Bristol channel. It offers a pleasant seaside situation, South-facing and relatively sheltered. Add in that it takes very little seepage and dries very quickly, and it is a perfect winter venue.

The climbing is on natural limestone, generally well-featured but starting to show wear on some routes. The most popular sector is the steep sport climbing further along the beach, where you can find good quality routes from 5.10d to 5.13d. A lot of the old bolts have been recently replaced (around 2010) with new stainless-steel staples. Some of the old bolts (hangars) remain, so make sure you clip the right ones!

If sport climbing is not your cup of tea, the nearer part of the crag offers some adventurous trad climbing, commonly described in various shades of harrowing. The rock may be sound, but protection is often sparse. Overcoming the infamous 'sand cornice' at the top is the crux for many, but don't get too smug should you succeed. The steep, sandy, grassy slope above the crag doesn't take gear too well, or stakes, so building a belay can be a right challenge. Often a pre-placed static rope from an outcropping or fence-post well back from the crag edge is advisable.

Getting There

From the M5, take junction 22 then follow signs to Burnham and Brean leisure park. Continue on the same road for about 8 miles, passing various caravan sites and holiday villages. Right at the end of the road you can park in the Bird Garden cafe's car park, for £2 per vehicle per day, or free if you buy tea and a slice of cake. The latter option is preferred!

The easiest access route to the crag is by walking across the beach, possible except for about 1 hour either side of high tide. An alternative approach over the top of the down can be made, but it takes longer and finding the descent path can be tricky.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
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Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 1
Brean Dream
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
Kraken
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Bikini Atoll
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Coral Sea
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 2
Chepito
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 1
Pearl Harbour
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
Tide Rising
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
A Heavy Read
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 2
Chulilla
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 1
Prisoner of Conscience
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
The Guilt Edge
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Bullworker
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 1
The Roof of Inequity
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
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 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Brean Dream
 1
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Kraken
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Bikini Atoll
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Coral Sea
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Chepito
 2
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Pearl Harbour
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Tide Rising
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
A Heavy Read
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Chulilla
 2
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Prisoner of Conscience
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Guilt Edge
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Bullworker
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Roof of Inequity
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Left (lower) side. The rope is on Pearl Harbour.
[Hide Photo] Left (lower) side. The rope is on Pearl Harbour.
Right-hand (upper) side. The climber is near the top of El Chocco.
[Hide Photo] Right-hand (upper) side. The climber is near the top of El Chocco.
Brean in the evening light. A climber having one last go on Storm Warning Variation (5.13a/b)
[Hide Photo] Brean in the evening light. A climber having one last go on Storm Warning Variation (5.13a/b)