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Capulin Tower Area

New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Capulin Canyon… > Capulin Canyon

Description

Capulin Tower is a semi-detached 120' tower formation in the middle of The Hinterlands. The tower itself boasts two routes, an enjoyable two-pitch route to reach the top via 5.10+ climbing and a gorgeous 110' overhanging finger crack crux crack line, Petrichor Crack, right up the middle of the tower.

Flanking the tower are two other routes. On the left side is Capulin's only fully-bolt-protected route, Onward to the Edge of Space!. Much further to the right of the tower is the fantastic The Viking

Getting There

Approach as for The Hinterlands as shown on the approach beta photo. map. Once in the bottom of the canyon, go upstream (west) for a few hundred yards until you're just below The Hinterlands area. Head right out of the drainage more or less straight up to the wall and then over to the right to reach the base of Capulin Tower. There's not much a trail because the slope washes out frequently and vegetation takes over after wet summers.
The tower routes start from a small, comfortable ledge area that requires a touch of 4th class scrambling to reach.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
Onward to the Edge of Space!
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Anachronistic Ethics
Trad 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Petrichor Crack
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
The Viking
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Onward to the Edge of Space!
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Anachronistic Ethics
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Petrichor Crack
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
The Viking
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Capulin Tower topo. Note a 70m rope is required to lower from the summit. It's overhanging and you'll be hosed with a 60m rope.<br>
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Green topo line is the amazing [[109771342]]<br>
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Yellow topo line is [[109771487]]<br>
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Blue topo line is [[109771456]]
[Hide Photo] Capulin Tower topo. Note a 70m rope is required to lower from the summit. It's overhanging and you'll be hosed with a 60m rope. Green topo line is the amazing Onward to the Edge of Space! Yel…
View of The Hinterlands and Capulin Tower from the southern rim of the canyon while on the approach trail.
[Hide Photo] View of The Hinterlands and Capulin Tower from the southern rim of the canyon while on the approach trail.