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Routes in Warfare area (Upper Cookbook)

Hand of God, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Project Overkill S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Satan's Alley S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spiritual Warfare S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supernatural S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
ext. Jack and The Beanstalk S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
ext. Southern Exposure S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Description

The Warfare Area offers a unique climbing experience but is not for the faint of heart. It is otherworldly, eerie and untamed while standing out as one of the most beautiful climbing areas in the piedmont, as the veiw and atmosphere are indeed amazing. The climbing is exceptionally steep and powerful with no route weighting in at less than 5.12. Located over 100' off the ground, sure footing and caution are needed to navigate the jagged terrain. Be mindful of knocking off rocks if other climbers are down below or bouldering up the slab and there is a repel station to the far right which can be used to belay the slab if necessary.
Due to unusual conditions via the Cookbooks shape, cool/shady mornings, exposure and altitude, 50 - 52 degrees is the general baseline temperature range for climbing comfortably in the Cookbook. And if the wind becomes a factor, as it often does in the winter months, it can get brittle cold in a hurry. The rest of Cooks can be climbed in lower temperatures.

Getting There

From the Lower Cookbook (Emla Area), boulder 80' up the slab to access the 'upper deck'. The upper deck is a series of catwalks with the central gathering spot being around a huge boulder on the largest part of the ledge, underneath the route Spiritual Warfare. All routes in this area start off of this ledge system.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Warfare area (Upper Cookbook)

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Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
Let me know when you come Mr. Brown. I'd love a guided tour. Oct 31, 2013
nbrown
western NC
nbrown   western NC
Seth, it's good to see more routes at Cooks these days. I haven't been there myself for nearly a decade, but all the new action it's receiving has gotten me interested in another visit one of these days.

On a similar note: Has anyone found the obscure 2 bolt (I think) line I did up on the wall above the cookbook area (and slightly to the east of here)? Kind of a hidden wall which is why I was curious if anything else had been done up there. Oct 30, 2013

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