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Routes in Strategic Arms Wall

Arms Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Arms Race S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Disarmament S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Divide and Conquer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
False Flag S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Honeycomb S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Intercontinental Breakfast S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Leave out the Salt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lost S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
SALT S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Salted Wounds S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sands Trap S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Strategic Arms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 4,241 ft
GPS: 36.158, -115.434 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,186 total · 119/month
Shared By: Michael Kimm on Oct 7, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

Description

High above Ash Spring, up the canyon from Cold Sweat, sits an obscure classic splitter: Strategic Arms; a tall, overhanging corner set in a 100-foot tall, beautiful, black varnish wall. Another Calico crag which makes you feel like you're a million miles from everyone.
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Getting There

Another crag visible from the Kraft parking. Hike off the backside of the Kraft parking lot and follow the road to the old house foundation. Take the trail down into the wash and follow it on the left side to Ash Spring and its boulders. Continue up the steepening canyon past a tall slab on your left (Cold Sweat), and work your way up slabs and across and around boulders until you're up under the wall (Intercontinental Breakfast will be visible from below). From here, either do a fifth class move up and over an eight foot high break, or go around to the right and circle back down into the slot below the wall. ~30 minutes.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Strategic Arms Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
SALT
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Intercontinental Breakfast
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Strategic Arms
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lost
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
SALT 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Intercontinental Breakfast 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Strategic Arms 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Lost 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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Weather Averages

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Photos

Aimee Rose
Bend, or
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
I finally went there and yes, it is not a kid-friendly hike until your kids are maybe 10 and very good at scrambling. It took us over an hour to get there because we were route finding. If you knew where you were going, maybe 45 minutes. The 25 minutes stated in the guidebook is if you have no pack and are trail running! Nov 24, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
Aimee- Most of the wall is North/Northeast facing, so not very much sun. The left side faces east and probably bakes in the summer.

My vague memory is I would not take kids up there- I dont remember the base area being kid friendly at all. Apr 12, 2017
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
What's the aspect this time of year- sun or shade? And is the base relatively flat, aka, kid-friendly? Thanks! Apr 11, 2017
Any more info on these other 6 or so bolted routes around the corner to the right? May 15, 2015
Michael Kimm
Las Vegas, NV
Michael Kimm   Las Vegas, NV
There are six or seven new routes here; they're not mine, but I climbed several of them. The ones I did range from 5.11+ to middle 5.12. As stuff continues to clean up, this wall is going to be very popular: a run of 100-foot-long steep 11s and 12s? Yes please! Nov 25, 2014
Sounds rad Mike! Got pics? Oct 7, 2013

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