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Routes in Maku-Iwa

Sunset S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 646 ft
GPS: 35.167, 139.089 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Michael Ferioli on Oct 4, 2013
Admins: Christian Storms
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Description

Nestled in a small mountainside cut lies a collection of south facing, discontinuous crags reminiscent of Rumney New Hampshire. This area consists of more than 370 routes, most of which are bolted and single pitch. Many of the lines are easily top roped since scrambling to the top of the crags is generally easy and solid anchors abound. The parking lot is free but not very large, get there early even on weekdays as large groups of retirees have taken to climbing. There is a guide book that covers this area which includes basic topo maps, numbered lines, and grading using the Yosemite decimal and UIAA systems. However, all the text is written in Japanese so descriptions, route names, and area info will need translating.

Getting There

This area is located just north of the Izu peninsula in a place called Yugawara. Yugawara station appears to be the closest train stop, although I have not been there by train. Approach times from the parking lot vary, but the closest crags are 5 minutes or less via obvious though unmarked trails.

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Bill 1552
Portland, OR
Bill 1552   Portland, OR
Without car, take train to Yugawara then a taxi from the train station. Ask taxi driver to take you to Makuyama. Taxi was approx. 1,650Y.

From the parking lot, you can see some of the cliffs peaking through the trees. Follow any of the trails heading up. The main trail leading to the right (looking at the cliffs) was much better maintained and led to what seemed to be the more popular climbing areas. The trails leading to the left were overgrown and led to areas that seemed to be less frequently climbed.

For the return journey, either hitch a ride with other climbers or walk back to the train station, approximately 45 minutes downhill. Sep 19, 2017

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