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Routes in Old Light Cliff

Albacore T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

A long, slabby cliff with some fine crack climbs on the right hand side. The left side has been taken over by lichen (the long sea-grass variety) and the routes there will need a good clean before being reclimbed. The top-out of the routes hereabouts is very loose and can be pretty dangerous. The usual advice is to position your abseil so as to be able to use it to protect the last 20m or so.

Getting There

From the old light follow the wall on its North side down the bracken slope. Continue after the wall stops, with a steep, loose gully on your left until you reach good boulders near the cliff edge. A 70m abseil from here will get you to the bottom of the cliff and the start of the routes.

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