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Routes in El Norte

Abiquiu S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Anis del Mono S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Consistency of Re-fried Beans S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Girl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
F-Bomb (aka Another Sport Climber With Tourette's) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fierce Urgency of Now S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Irrational Fear of Boredom S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Junk Drawer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lard Ass S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
My Hair Challenged Friend S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sorry Mr Policeman But if I Wanted to Talk to Someone I Would Have Called a Friend S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Unfinished (Unknown) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Description

This area is near El Rito and was newly bolted in the summer of 2013. The rock is cobble conglomerate and is the same as El RIto. Since it is a new area some of the routes still need some cleaning. The routes are between 40 and 70 feet in length and are fully equipped. Please do not top rope on the anchors. The area is divided into two sections, a lower slab and a treed grotto above. There is a shrine in the grotto so be sure to bring an offering.

Getting There

From the parking area for El Rito follow the El RIto trail for about ten minutes and about 50 feet before the scree field that crosses the trail, look for a cairn next to the trail. Cut up left on a faint trail (trail work will hopefully be completed this fall). Follow this path to the lower slab routes, and this takes about 5 minutes from the El Rito trail. There are four routes here. To get to the Grotto scramble over a five foot wall about 60 feet left of the left-most lower slab route and go up and left to a steep gully. Twenty feet of Class 4 scrambling leads you into The Grotto. There is currently a fixed blue rope to help negotiate this section. Be advised that this scramble is too steep for dogs and small kids to negotiate safely. The Grotto area is a cool place. Please be respectful and don't use the area as a toilet.

12 Total Climbs

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Yes, like I said in the original post to this new area, the routes do need more cleaning. Caution and a helmit are good ideas. Due to the nature of the matrix and the cobbles the routes can be expected to shed more rock before they are mostly clean. Mar 3, 2014
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
ChefMattThaner   Lakewood, co
This area is either in some serious need of cleaning or is going to be an adventurous climb for all that try it. Did several routes in this area on Feb. 22nd and pulled off more cobblestones then I can count and had numerous feet crumble beneath me. This place made for one of the scariest 5.9 climbs I have ever been on. Wear a helmet and keep the belayer out of the line of fire! Feb 26, 2014

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