Elevation: 2,650 ft
GPS: 47.672, -70.626 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,967 total · 27/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Sep 12, 2013
Admins: Luc-514
Access Issue: This site is on the Parc des Grand Jardins SEPAQ Details

Description

As you come into the parc, Mont de l'Ours is the first main cliff visible on the right side (east).
The cliff is a mix of cracks in the moderate range 5.5 - 5.9+
It faces the west so it's pretty useful for the limits of the rock climbing season.
All routes are trad with some glued bolted belay/rap stations.
Having 2 ropes is mandatory since a lot of the routes in the park can be 50m stretchers, there are no intermediate rap stations.
the main rap is going down La Directe's glue-ins, just be careful when pulling the rope on the last rap, there's a lot of slots, flakes and pockets to that may turn your evening into an epic getting your rope unstuck.

Getting There

Drive and park at the welcome center, pay your daily fee, and hike out using the trail located just in the back of the building.
take direction Mont Lac des Cygnes and look for a trail on the left after 100m or so.
15 minute approach, the last stretch can be tricky early season, especially if the handrail rope is buried.

3 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mont de l'Ours

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
La Directe
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Pinocchio
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
La Directe
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Pinocchio
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
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