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Areas in Horseshoe Quarry

Main Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Toilet, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 650 ft
GPS: 53.282, -1.689 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 714 total · 13/month
Shared By: farkas.time on Aug 31, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell
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Description

This a very large, quarried crag, hosting around 290 limestone sport routes, a handful of trad lines, and at least one decent multipitch sport adventure. The rock quality here varies from good to poor (belayer helmet highly recommended), and there are some very worthwhile pitches. Sport grades range from 5.5 (upper tiers only) to 5.12b, though the highest concentration of good quality sport routes (Main Wall area) go at around 5.11. The trad routes range from 5.9 to 5.11b, and the multipitch sport is all around 5.10a. Much of the fixed protection is old but good, and bolted anchors exist at the top of the climbs.

It can be very busy, but it's a large, flat, open quarry, with lots of routes, so claustrophobia is not a problem -- have a game of footie in the middle if you wish. Aesthetically, Horseshoe is pleasant. The quarrying ended some time ago, so the landscape is renaturalised to a large degree. The various areas cover a range of exposures, but the primary areas have a south-westerly exposure for good afternoon sun, if the cloud cover isn't too thick. It is a bit windy, though not in comparison to the exposed gritstone edges (Stanage, etc.), and so can dry fast.

Getting There

Driving from the town of Stoney Middleton, use a small parking lot on the right hand side of the A623 about 1 mile past the B6521. Pullouts exist on either side of the road nearby if this lot is full.

Walk through the parking lot 5 minutes to the obvious defunct quarry. The first bit of rock you see, hosting grassy steps to a cave, is the Toilet area. This is the primary wall, and as you follow it left, deeping into the quarry, you encounter the Androids area, Main Wall area, and Left Side area. Above all these areas is an upper tier.

6 Total Climbs

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