Bholláin Muire (Mary's Pass) Bouldering
Elevation: | 5 ft |
GPS: |
37.8251, -122.5132 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 7,578 total · 65/month |
Shared By: | Matthew Estes on Aug 17, 2013 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
These lil' boulders cracked off the cliff sometime in the last few months. A good number of routes are under the sand now, but it's opened up some new opportunities for projects.
This set of three boulders appears to be one large boulder that cracked into three pieces when it hit the ground which provides some interesting combinations of easy chimneys, finger cracks, sharp chert problems, and some short, fun slab climbs.
The boulders are about 20 feet from the water at a modest high-tide, and who knows how far at low tide. The leeward side is very protected from the wind but receives direct sunlight from noon until about 6:00 PM, bring yo' sunscreen.
It's all boulders here, no ropes, no bolts. Just bring your shoes and chalk.
It's a lot of sharp chert (or "chert rich" to quote our geophysicist friend...) flakes and wrinkles and it's a ton of fun to climb but it'll chew through your fingers pretty quickly
There are no access fees to get here, but it's a LONG drive from San Francisco if you're heading there in the middle of the day on a Saturday (two hours from Berkeley) Just follow the directions to get to Hidden Cove and you'll get to these lovely ladies.
Access issues here are the tide. If it's high, you're gonna be dealing with spray on the rocks, waves lapping at your feet, etc, etc... Closest places to buy a beer are probably in Sausalito, so bring it with you when you head out. You can't camp very close to the rocks (as far as I know) because it seems like the tide goes all the way to the cliff during high tide.
This set of three boulders appears to be one large boulder that cracked into three pieces when it hit the ground which provides some interesting combinations of easy chimneys, finger cracks, sharp chert problems, and some short, fun slab climbs.
The boulders are about 20 feet from the water at a modest high-tide, and who knows how far at low tide. The leeward side is very protected from the wind but receives direct sunlight from noon until about 6:00 PM, bring yo' sunscreen.
It's all boulders here, no ropes, no bolts. Just bring your shoes and chalk.
It's a lot of sharp chert (or "chert rich" to quote our geophysicist friend...) flakes and wrinkles and it's a ton of fun to climb but it'll chew through your fingers pretty quickly
There are no access fees to get here, but it's a LONG drive from San Francisco if you're heading there in the middle of the day on a Saturday (two hours from Berkeley) Just follow the directions to get to Hidden Cove and you'll get to these lovely ladies.
Access issues here are the tide. If it's high, you're gonna be dealing with spray on the rocks, waves lapping at your feet, etc, etc... Closest places to buy a beer are probably in Sausalito, so bring it with you when you head out. You can't camp very close to the rocks (as far as I know) because it seems like the tide goes all the way to the cliff during high tide.
Classic Climbing Routes at Bholláin Muire (Mary's Pass)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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