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Routes in Pioneer Peak

B-52 T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Center of the South Face T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Left Part of the South Face T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nibbler T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Power Test T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Right Part of the South Face T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
South Face Buttress T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Elevation: 12,000 ft
GPS: 43.082, 77.103 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 826 total · 14/month
Shared By: Riley Jordan on Aug 14, 2013
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Description

Pioneer Peak currently has 7 multi-pitch traditional routes on the South face. I've heard that it stays dry year-round but with climbs starting at 12,000 ft., It would be very cold in the winter/early spring. These climbs don't see much traffic and the rock quality goes from solid to poor very quickly. Climb cautiously and always wear helmets.

Descend: to the ridge on the west (left) side of Pioneer and down the scree gully.

Special thanks to Kirill Belotserkovskiy and steelinside.com/ for all the beta.

Getting There

You can take a bus or taxi to Medeu, ride the gondola to Shymbulak Ski Resort and hike from there, but it's going to take many hours. The best way to reach this area is to drive. Keep driving past Symbulak and the road will turn into a 4WD trail. Continue past the Tuyuk-Su Gates climbing area and past the dam (there is an abandoned building there). Once the road turns hard left and begins a steep climb, you'll want to park. Hike up the well-traveled ridge to Alpengrad (an alpine camping area) and past it for another 30 min. On the North side of the alpine lake and west of the glacier, you'll see the South face of Pioneer Peak.

Note: We typically park before the Tuyuk-Su Gates and hike to Alpengrad, camp, and climb the next day. But this leaves about a 3-4 hour approach from the car. Driving to the base of the ridge to Alpengrad will save you a significant amount of time and energy but the road gets bad so you'll need something with fairly high clearance.

7 Total Climbs

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