Elevation: 6,102 ft
GPS: 35.813, -106.144 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 21,521 total · 309/month
Shared By: Aaron Miller on Aug 3, 2013 with improvements by Brandon Rose and 1 other
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

This crag is located on the back side of Diablo Mesa, the same Mesa with the Solar Cave and Winter Wall, just the northwest aspect. The climbing starts where you see a large detached pinnacle that, between it and the walls, forms a nice little valley to hang out and watch the sports action.

The Shack is best climbed in warm seasons as it gets full shade all morning until about 2pm. In the Summer, you will be hiking out when the sun hits. But it does stay nice and cool all day so it is a pleasant Summer crag. There are currently 20+ routes here with some further potential for a few more quality lines. The presence of a handful of routes in the 5.13 range at this crag is also a nice addition to the Santa Fe sport climbing scene.

*** Some folks like to bring a stick to clip first bolts.
*** Be on the lookout for rattlesnakes coiled on the trail during morning approaches in summer months.

Getting There

The crag is not visible from the road. Drive past the main Diablo parking area and when you are about to pass Diablo Mesa all together, look for a pullout on either right or left side of the road in arroyos. Don't pass the pump station on your left, you've gone too far (park across from the pump station but not in front of it, they will leave you with angry notes of wildly empty threats!)

A trail begins on the other side of the arroyo and heads up a gulley then traverses out to the nose of a prominent ridge detached from the main cliffband.

When parking on the roadside, beware of sandy berms pushed up by the graders, several 2WD trucks have gotten stuck in these berms. Best to have AWD or 4WD or park further up the road where you can pull off without berms . You can also bring a shovel and easily clear a little path for your car to clear the berm. If in a 2WD pickup-truck, BRING A SHOVEL!

 navigate to the trailhead:  35.816574, -106.140833

40 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Shack (a.k.a. The Standby Shack) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Shack (a.k.a. The Standby Shack)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
City Girl
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 19
Frogger
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
DogGone It
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 16
32 Flavors
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Tupper-Where
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Legend of the Fall ("LRP" Variant)
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 23
Crispy the Renegade
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 19
Live to Pull
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Block of Life
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
40-Love
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 5
Gauntlet
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 3
A Thousand Yards of Drift (the w…
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 9
Urban Legend
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
Ring Around The Rosie
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 6
Tempest
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
City Girl Main Wall
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Frogger Main Wall
 19
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
DogGone It Dog House
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
32 Flavors Main Wall
 16
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Tupper-Where Main Wall
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Legend of the Fall ("LRP"… Main Wall
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Crispy the Renegade Main Wall
 23
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Live to Pull Main Wall
 19
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Block of Life Main Wall
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
40-Love Main Wall
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Gauntlet Main Wall
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
A Thousand Yards of Drift (… Main Wall
 3
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Urban Legend Main Wall
 9
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Ring Around The Rosie Main Wall
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Tempest Main Wall
 6
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Shack (a.k.a. The Standby Shack) »

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
The area looks great and I am looking forward to checking it out this weekend. However, on my computer screen the topo photos are nearly impossible to read. Any chance Aaron can switch the color of the text? Maybe it is just my screen or my old age. Bifocals are next.

Thanks for sharing the beta and putting up what look like great routes.
EW May 9, 2014
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
How about lumping the Live, Renaissance, and Renegade sectors back into one area? I agree with sorting out the Dog House and entrance pinnacle, but the other areas being separated when it is one wall adds to the confusion for me. Oct 13, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Agreed, the three sectors setup was quite confusing. As of 9/23/2015, they've all been lumped into one Main Wall section again. If anyone finds any route sorting errors, please let me know. Sep 24, 2015