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Routes in Mount Baden Powell

BP Falls T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c WI2-3 M1-2 Steep Snow PG13
NE Face Routes T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 Steep Snow PG13
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Description [Suggest Change]

Baden Powell is a great winter mountaineering spot in SoCal. Good training for stuff in the Sierra, with a super short approach, very few people, very quiet alpine feel, great views, and on and on. One of my favorite places.

The Northeast Face has a handful of lines on it that are lots of fun and good for training to go fast. Steep snow and occasionally ice. Always be aware of conditions throughout the morning/day, as it's east facing so you'll get the first sunlight and thus you'll get shot at by the mountain gods first. Rockfall can be a major issue, so know what you're doing and be fit and fast. the 600m or so face can be charged up in 1.5-2hrs or so. Easy ridge hiking to the summit makes for a great morning climb.

Mine Gulch is a challenging outing, and is very fickle. Make sure you go in the coldest conditions possible after a good dump, and some time. The right freeze thaw cycle is critical. The lower part is pretty, with lower-angle snow and some steep waterfall ice to 70ft or so. Above that, the snow eventually steepens. This upper area is one of the most dangerous and loosest places I've ever been in the San Gabes. If you choose to do this route, be very fast and be very right with your forecasting, or you could easily pay for it with your life or limbs.

Mine Gulch is also one of the more challenging canyoneering routes in SoCal. Exercise much of the same caution as you would in winter, as stuff falls here all the time regardless of season. It has a Death Valley feel, but with shorter rapps and water down low.

The north/northeast side has some waterfall ice, WI3ish. Ices up reliably, but can be hollow with water running underneath. Some easy mixed on the left side. Bring a full set of nuts for that as well as stubby screws.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

You'll want to park at Vincent Gap on the 2 (Angeles Crest). Since Baden Powell is really only a winter destination unless you're canyoneering, you'll want to come in from the east from Wrightwood. Take the 15 north through Cajon Pass and hit the 138 west. Take this to the 2. The 2 usually stops at a locked gate at Vincent Gap, making it a no-brainer.

Look at the GPS coordinates for this area/peak. The parking area is just northeast of the peak.

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