GPS: 32.484, -106.798 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 779 total · 12/month
Shared By: Forrest Wilcox on Jul 5, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

The South Columns is a great winter climbing area.  Bring a standard trad rack for the climbs.  There may be a rap route near the center of the ridge near a tree.  If not continue walking right to easy ground for a walk off descent.  Most climbs are one pitch although there are multi-pitch climbs.

Climbs, left to right follow.

1)  Cheap Thrills (5.6 A1):  This is the old bolt ladder up the steep clean face.  There should be an old fixed anchor at the top.

2)  Mark’s Crack (5.10):  the crack is harder than it appears.  There is a fixed anchor at the end.

3)  Unknown:  something goes up this weakness.

4)  Dirty Deeds (5.8):  two or three shorter pitches takes one to the top via a right facing chimney.  There was an older name for the route.  Watch for possible bees on the route.

5)  Second Fissure (5.8-5.11?):  there are several climbs (perhaps 4) in the steep area near the right facing dihedral.  One climb is called Kumquat.

6)  The Best (5.10):  this crack climb goes up about 70 feet via a left facing off width section to a fixed anchor.  There is now a second 5.10 pitch to the route.

7)  The Worst (5.9):  another good but easier crack climb goes to a shared anchor with The Best.

8)  Cherry (5.8):  find the next good looking weakness which has an eastern aspect at the top.  There is a one or two pitch climb here.  Look for a roof which has an easy escape to the right.

Getting There

Drive down Jornada Road, turn left as if you were going to checkerboard, turn right on the powerline road, and then go through the canyon until you are on the good dirt road on the other side (high clearance or 4wd are a must). Go left on this road until you can see two mountains to your right. Park where you can easily hike between these two mountains. The west face side of the right mountain is the Columns.

2 Total Climbs

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