PRINT: Rock Climbing in Nameless Tower, City of Rocks

Nameless Tower

Idaho > S Idaho > City of Rocks

Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

A worthy crag with a variety of routes located in the North Fork of Circle Creek. The approach of roughly 45 minutes probably keeps many back along the main road, or nearby crags. This rock is definitely worth a little extra effort and will also give parties a look at tons of underutilized rock, waiting for some climbers. Presently, the west face has the best developed routes but there is clearly room for more exploration.

Getting There

Park at the Circle Creek Overlook and walk along the road to the junction of Center Creek and the North Fork of Circle Creek. At this time the signage in this part of the City is quite good and should be helpful to parties seeking this crag.
Hike up the North Fork trail, then take a right onto the Banana Crag trail. Higher, in about ten minutes, parties enter an set of aspens. The trail is intermittent through this area, but the going is not difficult. Leave the trail and head uphill to the right, crest a small rise and the multi-summited Nameless Tower is in front of you. There is a square-shaped white intrusion of lighter rock in the center of the west face that can help identify this formation. It might take a short hour to do this approach. In the spring it is a riot of flowers and is a pleasant warm-up.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 14 ● Naked Ape Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 7 ● Peppermint Patty Sport 2 pitches

● Naked Ape

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches

● Peppermint Patty

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Party on the first pitch of Subzero.

The 'flare' doesn't help but this is your first full view of Nameless, coming up from the aspen grove.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

abe r
Boise, ID

the 5.11 route, subzero, in Bingham is worthwhile. The bolting is rather generous but just note that the 1st bolt is def quite high however the overall line in Bingham is correct Jun 24, 2019

BAd	[Hide Comment] We did the 8 and the 9. Both worthy outings and mellow for the grade. Go do them. Oct 11, 2020

BAd	[Hide Comment] Does anyone know if one can lower/rap from the top of the first pitch of Subzero with a single 70? The second pitch would be too hard for me for sure, but I could take a shot at #1 but wouldn't want to haul a second rope in there to rap. Oct 11, 2020