Malawi
International
> Africa
Access Issue:
Details
Land is mostly owned by the chief of the local village. If you want to develop new climbing, or even repeat routes in areas outside of Mulanje, the best approach is to figure out who owns the land and go directly to them. They will usually grant you their blessing. The Mulanje Massif is owned by the government so this step is generally not necessary there. Regardless of where you are climbing, it is a good idea to have a local guide or porter with you to help you navigate the scene with the locals. Most locals have never seen climbing and may be scared or confused by it. Having a local who speaks Chichwea and English nearby helps to eliminate this problem.
Description
The entire country of Malawi is littered with world class granite that has seen relatively little development because most people don't know it is there. The climbing varies from big walls to steep crags to deep water soloing to huge boulder fields with everything imaginable in between. Some people have heard of Mulanje, where the biggest cliff in Africa is (West Face of Chambe 1600m), but few people realize that the entire country has huge granite domes and crags that look like they are straight out of Toulomne Meadows or the South Platte. The rock is extremely compact granite. The grains tend to be larger but it is generally not sharp and has similar friction and texture to the rock in Squamish, BC. The rock can be extremely featured, but there is plenty of friction climbing in areas that have been weathered by water. Due to the lack of temperate extremes, the rock does not fracture much so it lends itself to face climbing routes with bolts. There are cracks in spots but they tend to be over grown with vegetation. However, apparently some potential zones in the northern portion of the country were recently discovered that have clean splitters. Ask Tyler Algeo about these. Regardless, it is recommended to bring a drill and focusing on the clean faces if you want to establish new routes. The people in Malawi tend to be very friendly and it is known as "Warm Heart of Africa". The major language is chichwea but many people speak English. While you should feel safe in the country, even while in the cities, it would still be a good idea to use normal precautions while traveling within Malawi.
Getting There
Travel to Malawi is easy with two international airports: Blantyre and Lilongwe. Blantyre is the gateway to the Mulanje Massif and the southern portion of the country, while Lilongwe is the access point for central and northern Malawi. However, it is possible to fly into either airport then use public transportation or hire a private driver for low costs. You could rent a car but that is expensive here, especially by African standards. The roads are generally in very good condition, albeit a bit crowded especially with people on bikes. As you ride around the countryside of Malawi, and see 500+ foot domes and massive boulder fields everywhere, you'll begin to wonder why you have never heard of this place! The potential truly is unlimited!
History
There has been sporadic climbing development in Malawi since 1960s with a few periods of heightened development. Frank Eastwood and company established many traditional mountaineering type routes throughout Malawi during the 1970s. These routes usually followed crack systems, chinmeys, and lower angle slabs. Very few, if any bolts, are on these routes and most of them have not been repeated. Frank Eastwood published a guidebook to the Mulanje Massif that you can pick up on Amazon or other used book websites. There are a few other old guidebooks. While these books are helpful for information on different areas, most of the routes do not look very appealing. Mike Dalious, who operated an NGO in Zomba for several years developed several small crags in the area, and though he has departed, it is possible to find local expats who are familiar with the area. There are also small climbing pockets around Dedza, Zomba, and Ntcheu. Within the last few years, Malawi has seen a little more attention from climbers and the first modern, long, well protected routes have been established. Most of this attention has been focused on the Mulanje Massiff, but Tyler Algeo has established some sport crags near Lilongwe. Tyler has also started a bouldering gym in Lilongwe which is the first place in Malawi where climbers can congregate. Malawi has very few climbers relative to the amount of rock here and there is not much of a climbing community. Hopefully the bouldering gym and continuing to develop modern routes will change this. I hope to see Malawi grow into the well-known climbing destination that it deserves to be.
Climbing Season
Malawi has a sub-tropical climate, which is relatively dry and strongly seasonal. The warm-wet season stretches from November to April, during which 95% of the annual precipitation takes place. June, July and August are the coldest months with little to no rain. This is prime time. May and September can be good as well but might be a little hot.
Visas and Immigration
A passport and visa is needed to enter Malawi. You can buy a visa upon arrival to Malawi. As of 2019, a single entry visa costs $75 USD and is valid for 90 days. You can pay with $USD or credit card.
Communication
The main language in Malawi is Chichwea but many people speak English. Most employees at restaurants, lodges, and bus services will speak some English at the minimum, but many people speak great English throughout the country. It is very easy to get around compared to other countries in Africa.
Hardware Recommendations
If you plan on installing any fixed hardware, everything must be 304 stainless steel at a minimum but 316 SS would be better. This includes quicklinks and rappel rings. The rainy season in Malawi is very intense. Plated steel hardware here corrodes extremely quickly. The amount of corrosion on plated hardware here after 1 year is comparable to what you would see after 20-30 years in semi-arid environments in the USA. It is also not uncommon for the first hanger to be stolen off routes. Glue-ins for the first bolt or two would address this issue.
Other Activities
Safari in Liwonde National Park or Majete Wildlife Reserve. Also, if you are further north in Malawi, I would recommend South Luangwa National Park in Eastern Zambia. I went and it was incredible!
Visit Lake Malawi. It is the fourth largest fresh water lake in the world and has more species of fish than any other lake in world. The lake is awesome for diving, kayaking, and swimming. There is also plenty of potential climbing and dws potential around the lake. Cape Maclear and Monkey Bay seem to be the most popular areas to go to.
[Hide Photo] More huge, untouched walls in Mulanje. 800+ meters
[Hide Photo] The North Face of Chambe in the center then an unnamed wall on the left
[Hide Photo] Unclimbed face to the north of Chambe in Mulanje. At least 400m tall. Less than a mile from the road.
[Hide Photo] The waterfall on the right side of the lower West Face of Chambe.
[Hide Photo] North Face of Chambe in Mulanje. I'm pretty sure this has never been climbed
[Hide Photo] This is at Michiru mountain reserve. Relatively nice climb.
[Hide Photo] Always entertaining
[Hide Photo] Always a crowd when the expats climb. What passes for entertainment in the village. Mike Dalious belaying
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fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.…> Aug 24, 2014
Taos, NM
Boulder fields abound, so the diehard climber that is traveling should consider bringing a pair of shoes on their adventures, just dont expect crashpads unless you bring them yourself.
Check out this fantastic video of bouldering in Malawi from 2014:
vimeo.com/82273180
I also did a bit of DWS at Nkhata Bay (the cliff jumping spot that Mayoka does boat tours to) and at other spots around the country.
I also developed some bouldering near the gate to Nyika NP with permission from the village headman for the spot I lived at.
!!! Be sure to seek permission from area communities before you go traipsing all over someone elses land and start putting up problems/routes. !!! Aug 10, 2018
Salt Lake City, UT
If it it isn’t a climbing destination only implies it doesn’t have hundreds of routes and you can’t Drive there in your Subaru. I know it is a climbing destination for me and I can’t wait to come back Dec 18, 2018
Anchorage
youtube.com/watch?v=mgMmcQ7… Jan 3, 2024