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Routes in Kwanaksan

5.10 Face Climb S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
5.11 Face Climb S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
5.11b Face Climb S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
5.6 Arete S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
>>?<< S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heogong (Air) S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Honchaseo (By Yourself) S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
SonGarakhana (One Finger) S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swiungil (The easy way) S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Elevation: 844 ft
GPS: 37.44, 126.976 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Andrew Riley on Jun 16, 2013
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Description

Close and accessible from Seoul. Short 20-30 ft. granite face climbs, slabs, and bolted cracks with small roofs, bulges. All 15 routes can be toproped with an easy scramble around left. Anchors are easily accessible from the top, though a few are further back. Bring a few long slings for toproping; scramble up to retrieve them. All of the anchors are fixed american death triangles (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_death_triangle) . I would recommend scrambling to the top and setting up anchors directly off of the bolts comprising the anchors.

This crag is short enough in height where certain routes could be
high-balled. There are only 2~5 bolts per route depending upon the route. There are six cracks that can be climbed using trad gear (an excellent spot for beginning trad climbers).

The park itself can be busy, but the climbing area is off the main trail. While the city is visible from the top, Kwanaksan has a remote feel and you follow the river the whole way. The climbing area has 2 faces, both of which get sun. One side forms a theatre-like staging area. There are trees to sling hammocks and there's plenty of shade on the ground.

The Routes:
L-R
5.10 crack
5.7 layback
5.12a roof(corner)
5.9 crack(corner)
5.10b
5.11a
5.11b
?
5.6 arete
5.10
5.10a
5.10b roof
5.10
5.10b
5.10

Plenty of potential for bouldering throughout the park.

  • Most of this information was compiled from:
http://www.koreaontherocks.com/climbing/areas.php?area_id=46
http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/south-korea/seoul/area/272350407
Details

Getting There

Take subway line 4 to Gwacheon Station (438) and use exit 7. Continue straight until the road ends (550m) at another street next to a river. Turn left and follow the river (there are numbered parking spaces) just past a nice bathroom by a noodle/coffee stall to the main trail up Kwanaksan. The entrance to the park is directly behind the Gwacheon Middle School. From here, cross over either a cement bridge or a wooden bridge(there is a Buddhist temple exactly on the right side here), follow the road up and left roughly less than one hundred meters to the ticket booth. Continue on the paved path until it turns into rock steps. Stay on this well-beaten trail for about 30 minutes. On the way up, you will pass a cable car station and then walk for a little ways on a wooden boardwalk. Continue up until you come across two narrow signs (see pictures) on the left. Directly behind these two signs and directly across the creek bed is the crag. Continue up the same path for less than fifty meters and cross left over the creek bed and onto an obvious goat path. The goat path leads under some cable lines, up and to the right and then back left in the obvious direction of the crag.

9 Total Climbs

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Andrew Riley
Yangon, Myanmar
Andrew Riley   Yangon, Myanmar
One of the things that I didn't understand about this crag was the grading of the routes. The 5.6 and 5.7 felt extremely sandbagged, the 5.10b felt true to the grade, and the 5.12 felt soft. My comparison here is 4 years of climbing in Colorado and in Arkansas. Jun 18, 2013

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