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The Box aka The North Overhangs

Vermont > 2. Central Vermont > Lake Dunmore/Falls of…
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Description

Similar to the Main Crag, but slightly steeper and much better for leading. There are 6 routes and a few variations that are not overgrown, but they're actually really good.

The most obvious feature here is "The Box", which is a shallow, 10-foot wide chimney-like feature. The Box (and some variations), The Crack (aka Otter), and several other routes are somewhat clean. The rest of this wall looks like mostly 5.5-5.7 slab climbing, but is dirty and vegetated.

Getting There

Take the blue-blazed Lower Cliffs Trail from the Branbury State Park Campground straight uphill. The trail passes the lower approach to the Main Crag (on right). From the Main Crag, head climber's left (north), and cross a small stream (which may be dry) on a wooden footbridge. Keep traversing along blue-blazed Lower Cliffs Trail and you'll see a big, clean face to your right. 

The top of the cliff can be accessed by continuing north on the blue-blazed Lower Cliffs Trail to its junction with the Upper Cliffs Trail at the north limit of the cliff-band, then taking the Upper Cliffs Trail back south toward the Falls of Lana. A slightly shorter alternative bottom-to-top approach is to sneak around the south end of the cliff band between the North Overhangs and the Main Crag on some steep herd paths.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Raccoon
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 3
Fisher
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 7
The Box
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Otter aka The Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Red Squirrel
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Raccoon
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Fisher
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, TR
The Box
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Otter aka The Crack
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Red Squirrel
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The base of the North Overhangs, centered on The Box
[Hide Photo] The base of the North Overhangs, centered on The Box
Great views of Lake Dunmore with the Adirodacks and Taconics beyond can be had from the top of the crag.
[Hide Photo] Great views of Lake Dunmore with the Adirodacks and Taconics beyond can be had from the top of the crag.