Woodstock Rock Climbing
Routes in Woodstock Rock
|Agitation T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Bloody Bucket T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cave, The T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X|
|Do What! T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Gratefully Dead T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Inverted Iron Cross TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Wimpy Whiner Way, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|GPS:||39.331, -76.873 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||5,214 total, 95/month|
|Shared By:||John Kelbel on Jun 13, 2013|
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DescriptionForty foot tall and covered with many jug filled overhangs, the majority of the climbs start at the 5.8 level. The cave on the left side offers the longest roof problems in the Patapsco extending up to 24 feet long. Woodstock rock attracts both top-rope climbers and boulders and offers a few good leadable climbs for the experienced trad climber. The rock faces north and seldom sees the sun making for an ideal late spring to early fall destination. One draw back is after a long soaking rain the rock face will stay wet for about 2 days as water seeps out the numerous cracks systems.
Due to the extensively established climbs and many undocumented variations there is no room to add new bolt lines nor are there any bolted climbs on the crag. The local climbing heritage is quite adamant toward having a low impact on our limited climbing areas.
Climb Maryland by Mark Indy Kochte is the most comprehensive resource for Woodstock rock.
For top systems anchors
you will need up to 50 foot long systems to reach the many large trees at the top of the rock.
Climbing started at Woodstock some where around the late 60's and here is a list of the original routes and names that are known Do or Die, Gratefully Dead, Bloody Bucket, The Wimpy Whiner Way, and Mother F. This group of climbers included Howard Kornblum, Joe McManus, Rob Savoye, Scott Mculrg, Ed Bollack and likely a few more. In 1990 John Kelbel started climbing at Woodstock and worked on cleaning the rock off and adding more routes. In The following years Woodstock saw just occasional visit and it wasnt until 2010 that its popularity in both top-roping and bouldering took an impressive jump seeing almost weekly visits.
Use discrestion while on the approach via the tracks (CSX property) Details
While the actual Woodstock cliff is on park property the longstanding approach via the train tracks is private. Since the train derailment in Ellicott City (9/2012) CSX police presents has increased. It is possible and suggested to walk the steep hill side instead of the tracks.
Getting ThereLocated on the Howard county and Baltimore county line where Woodstock Rd turns into Old Court Rd, there is a gravel parking lot owned by CSX opposite the Woodstock Inn at address 1415 Woodstock Road, Woodstock, MD 21163.
A word about the bar, it tends to cater to motorcyclists and horse back riders. No kidding there's even a hitching post in the gravel parking lot which sees use particularly on weekends, so it's advisable NOT to park in front of it or right beside it.
There are two ways to approach the cliffs. The classic approach is to just walk ~800' down the tracks and then follow the short path straight up to the rocks at a white utility shack, but this is a blind corner on the tracks and you risk the ire of trains or train police. Better to make a small bushwhack through the back of the gravel lot and follow a faint trail up a short steep section about 30' away from the tracks and then proceed at that level and about 50ft inside the woods from the tracks until reach the base of the crag.
Classic Climbing Routes at Woodstock Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season