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Redemption Crag

Massachusetts > Central, MA > Crow Hill & Leominste…

Description

Mentioned briefly in the Boston Rocks guidebook, Redemption Crag offers some decent climbing for times when Crow Hill Ledge is overcrowded. Approximately 35 feet high at its highest, it has good quality rock. Fixed anchors on two trees were present as of two years ago. I do not know the route history here, but an abundance of chalk on the lower portion of the wall indicate it gets frequent climbers. Also worth mentioning is that this crag dries very quickly after a rainstorm, at least in the winter through spring when the leaves are down. It gets all day sun and can be very pleasant. Please be considerate of the family that owns the house near the base of the crag. Keep the noise down and no dogs.

Getting There

Park at Redemption Rock on Route 140 in the dirt parking lot. Take the Mid-State trail across the street. After approximately 5 minutes of hiking, the trail goes over the crest of the cliff. A climber's trail goes to the right, to the bottom of the crag.

Routes from Left to Right

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The large pine in center of photo contains a massive beehive in the trunk. Don't use it as an anchor. The smaller pine to the right is good though.
[Hide Photo] The large pine in center of photo contains a massive beehive in the trunk. Don't use it as an anchor. The smaller pine to the right is good though.
Ancient pins on a scary rap anchor
[Hide Photo] Ancient pins on a scary rap anchor
Dry, sunny spring day at Redemption Crag.
[Hide Photo] Dry, sunny spring day at Redemption Crag.
This photos is taken from the base of Redemption Crag. The crag is very close to the backyard of this home. Please be polite (pick up litter and limit noise) so that we can continue to maintain access.
[Hide Photo] This photos is taken from the base of Redemption Crag. The crag is very close to the backyard of this home. Please be polite (pick up litter and limit noise) so that we can continue to maintain acc…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

JD1984
Leominster, MA
[Hide Comment] As far as I know, it is state land as the Mid-State trail follows the crest of the hill that makes up the crag. It is also mentioned in Boston Rocks, with very limited information. Jun 19, 2013
JD1984
Leominster, MA
[Hide Comment] I put an X on a loose block in the crack to the right of the 5.9 face. Gave it a few good tugs, and it did not come off but is seriously loose. Apr 24, 2018