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Routes in Redemption Crag

Diagon Alley T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Karkus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Redemption Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Alley T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slytherin TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown face climb T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 35 ft
GPS: 42.508, -71.869 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: JD1984 on Jun 3, 2013
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer
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Description

Mentioned briefly in the Boston Rocks guidebook, Redemption Crag offers some decent climbing for times when Crow Hill Ledge is overcrowded. Approximately 35 feet high at its highest, it has good quality rock. Fixed anchors on two trees were present as of two years ago. I do not know the route history here, but an abundance of chalk on the lower portion of the wall indicate it gets frequent climbers.

Getting There

Park at Redemption Rock on Route 140 in the dirt parking lot. Take the Mid-State trail across the street. After approximately 5 minutes of hiking, the trail goes over the crest of the cliff. A climber's trail goes to the right, to the bottom of the crag.

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JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
As far as I know, it is state land as the Mid-State trail follows the crest of the hill that makes up the crag. It is also mentioned in Boston Rocks, with very limited information. Jun 19, 2013
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Is this cliff on state forest? I went out there one day, and there is a house literally at the bottom of the crag. Jun 18, 2013

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