Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Redemption Crag

Diagon Alley T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Karkus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Redemption Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Alley T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slytherin TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown face climb T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:

Description

Mentioned briefly in the Boston Rocks guidebook, Redemption Crag offers some decent climbing for times when Crow Hill Ledge is overcrowded. Approximately 35 feet high at its highest, it has good quality rock. Fixed anchors on two trees were present as of two years ago. I do not know the route history here, but an abundance of chalk on the lower portion of the wall indicate it gets frequent climbers. Also worth mentioning is that this crag dries very quickly after a rainstorm, at least in the winter through spring when the leaves are down. It gets all day sun and can be very pleasant. Please be considerate of the family that owns the house near the base of the crag. Keep the noise down and no dogs.

Getting There

Park at Redemption Rock on Route 140 in the dirt parking lot. Take the Mid-State trail across the street. After approximately 5 minutes of hiking, the trail goes over the crest of the cliff. A climber's trail goes to the right, to the bottom of the crag.

6 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Redemption Crag Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Is this cliff on state forest? I went out there one day, and there is a house literally at the bottom of the crag. Jun 18, 2013
JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
As far as I know, it is state land as the Mid-State trail follows the crest of the hill that makes up the crag. It is also mentioned in Boston Rocks, with very limited information. Jun 19, 2013
JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
I put an X on a loose block in the crack to the right of the 5.9 face. Gave it a few good tugs, and it did not come off but is seriously loose. 2 days ago

More About Redemption Crag

Printer-Friendly
What's New

All Photos Within Redemption Crag (12)

Most Popular · Newest · Random