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Areas in Deep Creek Crags

Arena, The 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 7
Trick Or Treat Wall 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Description

A series of crags running almost a mile just below the north ridge line of Deep Creek Canyon. Most of the rock faces somewhat South (Southeast, South and Southwest). The rock is Volcanic and very similar to Big Chief. There are good views of Big Chief from Deep Creek. There are some very good routes here, but some of them need more traffic. There are many styles of routes here. Some Trad, some sport routes, and some mixed routes are all present.

Getting There

I've heard about the crags for years, but when they appeared in the new guide I was hopeful that they would be easy to find. The directions are not horrible, but they're not great either. Here's a link to the parking area described for the East End Areas in the North Tahoe Locals guide.

everytrail.com/view_trip.ph…

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Deep Creek Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Jitters
Sport, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Climb Like a Madman
Sport, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Oh, my my!
Sport, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jitters Arena
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, Alpine
Climb Like a Madman Arena
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine
Oh, my my! Arena
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Deep Creek Crags »

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Photos

Laine Christman
Reno, NV
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
Ya done blown the lid off this area! TFPU Jun 5, 2013
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
Upon a recent visit, I noticed two things. A couple of bolts have sprouted in the last month, and the bolts on top of Jitters, Oh My My, and Berry Jerry have one bolt with some of the sleeve showing where rock has either broken away or the nature of the rock prevented a completely flush placement. They still appear to be solid, however. Jul 8, 2013
Nicholas L.
Raleigh, NC
Nicholas L.   Raleigh, NC
Despite the guidebook saying that a high clearance vehicle is "recommended", I would say it is necessary to go all the way. You can definitely get close-ish with a normal car and some careful driving.

I had a medium clearance AWD SUV and was able to make it to within 300 yards of the West End parking lot to a one car pull out on the right. After that there was a bump that was too steep for my car to go over without bottoming out. Before that there were two bumps where we had to get out and place logs in the road so that my SUV didn't bottom out. Sep 8, 2013
Patrick,

I like your descriptions of the area, of the climbs, and of the way information about them has been presented up to now. I've now climbed at the Deep Creek Crag on three separate days. Lemme add to what you said the following:

1. Your comment regarding the approach directions is spot on: "The directions are not horrible, but they're not great either." It's hard to understand why a little more detail and a few more specific milage points weren't given.

I'll try to clarify the author's (page 245, start of paragraph four) comment about how the "main" road forks several more times on the drive in, "stay left," by adding:

At about halfway in, the steep uphill part of the drive ends, and the road becomes closer to level; two roads look about equally "main" here. Do not take the left branch of the road (it goes uphill), stay on the right branch (which goes pretty close to straight and stays close to level).

2. Your comments about the rock's facing are also accurate and very important: "Most of the rock faces somewhat South (Southeast, South and Southwest)."

We climbed there on two days during which the temperatures in Truckee were 78 and 79 degrees respectively. And the crag was really hot, almost too hot to climb! I don't know when the access gate to the dirt road closes/opens, but I'd look for pretty chilly days to be ideal at Deep Creek Crags.

3. We walked the entire length of the cliff while we were there. Although the guidebook's map calls the cliff "Approximately 1 mile" wide, there is no way it's more than half a mile from end to end, and one third of a mile is probably closer to true. This one is a small point only, it's still a large and seemingly uncrowded cliff in a very pretty location.

4. We got in to the west end parking easily with a Subaru Outback wagon and some careful driving in a few spots.

5. Finally, yes, Big Chief is quite visible from Deep Creek Crag (to the east). Beautiful. As another point of interest, the most prominent knob on the ridge to the west is, I believe, Tinker's Knob. This feature is in the Granite Chief Wilderness; the Pacific Crest Trail passes just to the east of Tinker Knob's summit (that is, it passes on the Deep Creek side of the knob). Oct 9, 2014

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