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Humane Society Wall
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwood Canyon
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
About 14 sport routes, nice gradual overhang so its in the shade on the hottest summer days, no one is ever there, its the only quartzite wall in LCC.
Ill try to have routes and info up in the next week (sorry for the delay.. had alot of work this week ill try to have it up this week)
Getting There
Park at the granite quarry parking lot at the bottom of the LCC. Walk into the trees on the cement path to the south. Drop down into the river bed and walk west about 100 yards then head up the hill to the south (very thick brush) then follow a talus field up about a quarter of a mile. Its almost straight across the canyon from the bong eater.
[Hide Comment] Don't get too excited, this wall is in the book and from the number of routes the OP describes there's nothing new (or maybe one new line). It will be good to have it on here though, especially after the SLCA/Mike White's rebolting efforts made the anchors safe.
Jun 27, 2013
[Hide Comment] Great area, really fun climbing. Its worth a little bushwhacking to get to the routes. Bring bug spray if you plan on climbing into the evening.
May 5, 2014
[Hide Comment] Totally agreed that this little wall I've noticed for decades but never approached, is better than expected. I think it warrants some trail work, as the bushy approach isn't nice. I'll bring some pruners next time. Also, we couldn't find a way to stay dry crossing the stream. Is there a secret passage way, or should one just plan on bringing sandals? The climbing here is burly and real. Having cooler temps to try holding on to these somewhat slick and slopery holds sounds like a good idea tenesmus. Plus, a stick clip is certainly handy. Mateo Guapo had to do some gardening on the 12.b crux to reveal a key hold, on lead; it was crazy.
Sep 13, 2022
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
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Salt Lake, UT
Small Lake, UT
It will be good to have it on here though, especially after the SLCA/Mike White's rebolting efforts made the anchors safe. Jun 27, 2013
SLC, UT
The climbing here is burly and real. Having cooler temps to try holding on to these somewhat slick and slopery holds sounds like a good idea tenesmus. Plus, a stick clip is certainly handy.
Mateo Guapo had to do some gardening on the 12.b crux to reveal a key hold, on lead; it was crazy. Sep 13, 2022