Toats Coulee - Middle Fork (Loomis) Rock Climbing

TOATS COULEE MIDDLE FORK CRAG is a high (5250' elevation), remote and small area located at the SE edge of the Pasayten Wilderness along the Long Swamp Road (a one hour drive from Tonasket - 36 miles west of Tonasket and about 18 miles west of Loomis). The 150' tall granite cliff is on the right hand side just before where the road crosses the Middle Fork of Toats Coulee Creek. There is a lovely camp ground along the creek and fine views of Windy Peak to the north.

There are two possible approaches;
1) Park just before the creek (turn out on the left across from the “curve ahead” sign) and hike due north up the trail-less slope, short and steep, for about 10 minutes to the base of the SW facing cliff. The approach is through a lodge pole and aspen forest past the huge boulder to an open upper grassy slope. Veer left when you come to the open grassy band to reach the base of the South Face.
2) Park along the creek at the campground and hike east up the steep boulder and tree covered slope to the base of the SW face.

The top can be reached easily from either end. The rock is fine quality granite, and the climbing ranges from the easier broken ledges on the right end of the South face, to the steep and blank SW face. Be aware when lowering, as many of the routes are long and/or don’t start at the base of the cliff. This is also a relatively new and minimally used area and so be prepared for some dirt and/or loose rock on the routes - helmets are recommended.

There are also a couple of abandoned/aborted projects on the SW Face between Zen Caterpillar and Peakin' At Windy - with a bolt or two going nowhere, and ring anchors at the top.

* Note to all climbers, although this is a remote feeling crag it is also easily accessible to a wide range of other users (such as campers, hikers and hunters), so please do your best to minimize your impact and presence; pack it in-pack it out, and leave no trace. Potential route developers, please respect local etiquette, avoid bolting when gear would do, make any permanent anchors (bolts or top anchors) camouflaged, use stainless steel hardware as much as possible and don't mix your metals. Any comment and input on existing or new routes is much appreciated.

* Note - a key to route descriptions;
NAME; grade and quality (* - good, ** - very good, *** - great, **** - world class classic); (length); type of pro. used - G = natural/gear, F = fixed (b - bolt, p - piton, fn - fixed nut), M = mixed; TR = toprope, R = runout/dangerous, PG = scary/risky; Description; FA (first ascent date), GU = ground up ascent, TR = top rope ascent.