Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Goats Head Soup

Done Dirt Cheap S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Goat's Head Soup S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Lobster Dispute S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Indifference T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Jumpin' Silverfish/ Sidewinder S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Minestony S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
No Finer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
No Whiners S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Project 5.12+ TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Shiner S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sly T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 2 T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes


Good rock for the highway. Sunny location, off the highway a little. Routes here were almost all established by Steve Garvey. Has seen a lot of abuse by dry toolers over the last couple years. Please don't do this, really a big bummer.

Getting There

Mile marker 106.9

13 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Goats Head Soup Change
Type:  to 
Sort by:   then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Goats Head Soup

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Whiners
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Lobster Dispute
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Goat's Head Soup
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
No Whiners
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Great Lobster Dispute
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Goat's Head Soup
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Goats Head Soup »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season


C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
Say goodbye to this area. DOT plans to blow this wall up in the next round of highway improvements. Apr 5, 2014
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
Gus Barber
Anchorage, AK
Gus Barber   Anchorage, AK
This is a great area for the highway, should absolutely not be torn down. Been climbing there for some time and hope to climb there for years to come. Apr 20, 2016
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
The DOT project at Windy Corner is still open for public comment. Let your voice be heard!… Apr 20, 2016
Am I the only climber that does NOT care if this gets blown up? Apr 23, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
Definitely not the only one, Senor Clark Griswald. If we could somehow take the entire shit rock-band, minus the 20-40 or so lines that aren't complete seasonal freeze and thaw choss bombs, along the HWY, and place them on one cliff, the rest of it could be removed as well, as it exfoliates itself on a yearly basis. This place, and the entire highway, is a safety hazard for climbers and should be treated as such, not revered for its closeness...certainly not its quality. There are routes along the HWY that are good, but certainly few and far between. I know a lot of people get emotional about our local choss pile, but as I have pulled 12 pound blocks out on the lines that I classify as semi-solid, the rock is crap. Move to any other state with great rock and options and realize that if it was there, nobody would bother climbing on it. If I died as a result of a choss explosion on one of these lines I would come back from the dead, travel back in time and let zombie me beat the shit out of myself, because I would have died on garbage rock and climbed on something that lacks quality and aesthetics(if nothing else is devoid of actual character), therefore making my death truly smiting and not enriching on a Vonnegutesque level of dark humor/slapstick. Apr 23, 2016
Blow that choss pile up.
The gym wanks and APU wannabe guides with glacier glasses and prussel prussics will find another roadside pile of 5.8 schwag to top rope gangbang elsewhere 20 feet from the road. Lord knows the people that want to "save" it won't actually go exploring and climb one of the other 1000 crags on the Turnagain arm with better rock and routes. Too busy doing what the guidebook tells them to. Just down the road on Indian house Mtn there is an established 1000 foot 5.9 route with a walk off. Good rock. Try doing that one time instead of wiring Goats head to death to impress a clueless lass.

Wish I could push the button myself. Apr 25, 2016
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
lot of hate going on Goats Head. It's a nice place to go when the wind is blowing, or you just want to get a quick burn in. Want to share the beta on the 1000ft 5.9, Hoyt? Apr 25, 2016
South face of Indian house. 45 minutes up talus. At the start of the spur is a tree that looks like an ostrich. Pick the right spur or you'll end up in choss. Progresses from 5.2 to a 5.9 pitch #7. Bring your glacier glasses, junior. Apr 26, 2016
Anne F  
You all are funny.

Goats Head was pleasant the couple times I went by when I was learning to climb. It's also 100% sketchy choss just like the rest of the highway; not the type of thing I'd be willing to get on these days.

Get on some granite and stop squabbling, kids. Apr 26, 2016
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
Not all of us live s short distance from Index or Leavenworth... Apr 26, 2016
Not everyone lives an hour away from the Talkeetna mountains either...... Apr 27, 2016
Jesus, this is so weird. Climb there or not, who cares. It's not world class, you knew that before you showed up. Apr 27, 2016
Brady Deal
Anchorage, AK
Brady Deal   Anchorage, AK
+1 for The Schocker

Even though being a #chossmaster is fun, I'd rather have a safe highway to drive on rather than a 5 route crag. Safety first kids.

Wait a month until the snow melts and go to Hatcher instead.

Or better, go to the gym and get stronger. Apr 27, 2016
rock junkie
rock junkie   CO/WY
This goes to show that the Anchorage area has the worst climbing community on the

planet. You people have nothing but choss for miles around and your first

reaction when a semi solid chunk of it is threatened is "Blow that shit up"? Wow.

Not only do you idiots not take care of what you do have, the amount of mank I

clipped last summer on "popular" routes was maddening, but you then advocate for

an area's destruction? What the fuck? I hope the DOT blasts every crag within 5

miles of your "dangerous" highway, it would make it safe for little Brady.

Don't fool yourselves, Hatcher is shit (moss and giant blocks), Eagle River is

grid bolted and glued choss, and the stuff around Chickaloon? THAT'S NOT EVEN


I climbed at Goats Head one windy evening. It was kinda fun, out of the wind

and none of the holds broke on me, which is better than almost every other

place I climbed that summer. For the sake of the climbers in Anchorage I hope

every one of your shit rock piles fall off and your shitty gym burns down too.

None of you deserve to climb. Apr 28, 2016
Nice Rant!! That's some good shit!
A: If you think Goats Head is " solid", your demonstrated ignorance invalidates everything you say after that.

B: Although there is a lot of moss in Hatcher pass, there are quite a few 4 star routes/pitches there. Most people don't have the patience or the skill set required to find them, and a lot of the good stuff.... Wait for it..... Wait for it..... ISNT IN THE GUIDEBOOK!!! (Just tell me the Gold Tower in Craggie creek is moss and blocks so I can laugh in your face please)
The stuff in Chickaloon ( it's rhyolite, an extrusive igneous, look it up) might not qualify as rock to you, but the stuff in ARG isn't rock either.... And people love that shit for some reason.

Go back to Colorado ( and stay there) and tell everyone the only thing to climb in AK is Goats head, and they should chain themselves to the crag so they don't blow it up!

C: if you climb choss because that's where a guidebook directs you to, then you have only your lack of knowledge to blame for climbing said choss. There is plenty of good rock in SC AK. And Goats head doesn't qualify. Apr 28, 2016
So after all this, did it get blown up? Mar 28, 2017
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
Still there for another summer. Mar 29, 2017

More About Goats Head Soup

What's New

All Photos Within Goats Head Soup (4)

Most Popular · Newest · Random