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The Plunger

Alaska > Interior Alaska… > Denali NP > Little Switzerland
Warning Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! DetailsDrop down

Description

A thin blade-like spire of granite, this peak is rather unimpressive-looking from the Pika Glacier. Fortunately, looks can be deceiving! The Plunger has a HUGE dropoff and bigtime exposure to the north, which will be discovered while climbing the second (summit) pitch of either route. From the summit, one is rewarded with an exceptional view over the Granite Glacier, which sits some 1,000' below to the north. If it is clear enough, you might also see Denali, 30 miles away. This spire is a good early season alternative when other larger formations are still covered in snow.

Two known routes exist on The Plunger, a 5.10a hand crack on the North Face and a 5.11 thin-hand crack on the West Face. As far as I can tell, both routes share a starting pitch and then diverge on the summit block. As snow melts out, other starts may be possible. Rappel to descend with a single rope from fixed sling anchors.

Getting There

From the airstrip/basecamp, ski or snowshoe 20 minutes north, heading for the notch between The Throne and The Trolls. Stay close to the runout zone/bergschrund alongside North Troll to avoid crevasse fall danger. Depending on conditions, snow gear may be needed to access the base of the rock.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 0
North Face
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
West Face
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North Face
 0
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
West Face
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View east towards Talkeetna, looking over the Granite Glacier from the summit of The Plunger
[Hide Photo] View east towards Talkeetna, looking over the Granite Glacier from the summit of The Plunger
Stolen from the interwebz
[Hide Photo] Stolen from the interwebz
The Plunger is the small spire located in the notch, with The Throne to it's left.
[Hide Photo] The Plunger is the small spire located in the notch, with The Throne to it's left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The Plunger might also be named "Fish Tail Spire," which is described as being immediately south of the southeast face of The Throne.

The 1997 AAJ lists a new route being done on the formation by Matt Walsh & Campbell Mercer on July 7 1996 (70 meters, 5.6 A2 or 5.10a), which is likely known as the North Face Route. May 13, 2015