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Routes in The Royal Tower

Blade, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Boomerang Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chase, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Di's Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
East Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gargoyle Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Got Lucky T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jester, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Royal Flush T M4
Southeast Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spam and Legs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4 M5 A2
Elevation: 8,130 ft
GPS: 62.701, -151.223 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,716 total, 67/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on May 20, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer
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Description

A stunning 2,500' hunk of granite located centrally on the south flank of the Pika Glacier. A number of routes exist on the various aspects of the Royal Tower, but most are poorly (or un-)documented. The most prominent feature is the beautiful Gargoyle Buttress, a 2,000' IV 5.10a rock climb topped with 500' of moderate snow climbing to the summit.
Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details

Getting There

From the airstrip/basecamp, ski or snowshoe west for about 10-15 minutes to the base of this huge mountain. Depending on route/conditions, you will likely need an axe and/or crampons to climb steep snow slopes and cross a bergschrund to the base.

11 Total Climbs

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