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D Section: Houbei (“Thick Stone”), [a.k.a. “Switchback Wall”] Climbing


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Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 25, 2013
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Description

• The Thick Stone Wall is located just up the road from the valley village of Nanping, the quasi-“sister village” to the Cliffside village of Guoliang. It is located at the base of a bunch of switchbacks you will most likely have taken to get down from Guoliang to Nanping. It is also located just opposite of Youyifeng/Rollkai Spire. This area has a concentration of single pitch trad lines, if you are looking for some relief to all the sport lines that pervade many Chinese crags. Despite the nearby road, the wall is nicely situated near a stream, waterfall, and amphitheater. The amphitheater has another pillar that has potential for great trad lines!

o D1: “Rocknut”
• 5.7 27 meters, 1 pitch
• Trad
• Tree anchor, FFA: 伍鹏, 2007/2010

o D2: 平安中秋 (Ping’anzhongqiu) “Safe Mid-Autumn Festival”
• 5.12b, 20 meters
• Sport (6 bolts + anchor)
• FFA: 爬虫, 2009/10, Equipped by: 王二, 2009/10

o D3: [No name]
• 5.9, 23 meters, 1 pitch
• Trad
• Tree anchor, FFA : 伍鹏 (Freewind), 2007/2010

o D4: [No name]
• 5.9, 21 meters, 1 pitch
• Trad
• 2 bolts anchor, FFA: 天兰, Equipped by: 裂缝, 2005/7

o D5: 刺毡 (Cizhan) “Splinter in the Felt”
• 5.9+, 22 meters, 1 pitch
• Trad
• 2 bolts anchor, FFA: 小河, 2005/7

o D7:梨香院 (Lixiangyuan) “The Field of Sweet Pears”
• 5.9, 27 meters, 1 pitch
• Trad
• Tree anchor, FFA: 裂缝, 2007/10

o D8: 墨线 (Moxian) “Ink Line”
• 5.9+ A0, 120 meters, 3 pitches (Pitch 1: 5.9+ A0, 45m; Pitch 2: A0, 25m; Pitch 3: 5.8+ A0, 50m)
• Trad
• 1st pitch: tree anchor, 2nd pitch: 1 bolt, 3rd pitch: gear anchor; FA: 小河, 裂缝, 2006/7
• The rating for this climb is bizarre and completely paradoxical. The first ascentionists seem to have pulled on gear for the first pitch but were not able to free the easier 3rd pitch, which seems within their abilities given the ratings assigned to other climbs for which the FA bears their names, respectively. The 2nd pitch is also a mystery as simply A0. Regardless, this route can probably go free without much of an increase in grade (probably somewhere in the low- to mid-5.10 range.

Getting There

Nanping village is the closest town to this crag. Head uphill from the village. This will involve turning right off the main drag once you pass through a large gate in the middle of the village. Head uphill, following a stream towards the switchbacks that will lead you to Youyifeng/Rollkai Spire. At the base of the switchbacks, the stream should be on your left. Cross the streams and stones to the base of the wall. You should be able to spot bolts on this section of the wall.

From Guoliang: First catch a bus (frequent during tourist seasons) to Nanping village. Follow the same directions from Nanping.

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