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A Section: Xuanyangleigu, ("The Sheepskin Drum") [a.k.a “Tunnel Wall”] Rock Climbing


Routes in A Section: Xuanyangleigu, ("The Sheepskin Drum") [a.k.a “Tunnel Wall”]

A1-A4: Xuanyangleigu (Sheepskin Drum) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A5: [Unnamed Multipitch] T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A6: [Unnamed Multipitch] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Page Views: 344 total, 6/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 25, 2013
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball
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Description

• This wall is the one that houses the tunnel proper. While B section is actually directly underneath the road, the Tunnel Wall extends out past the point at which the road starts switchbacking down into the valley.

o A1-A4, 悬羊擂鼓 (Xuanyangleigu):
• 5.9, 140 meters, 4 pitches (5.7, 5.8, 5.7, 5.9)
• Trad
• Gear Anchors, FA: 雷嫒, 伍鹏,小河,赵凯
• My group scouted the base of this route. While it does have an incredible location on a prominent arête of the cliffs, the route quality did not look all that great. The approach was also a massive pain. The lower pitches look ledge-y, with all the moderate lines sporting plantlife, though there are much cleaner, harder lines on the walls around the arête. Since this area is so infrequently accessed, significant bushwhacking is involved to get to the base of the arête.

o A5:
• 5.10, 50 meters
• Trad
• FFA: 伍鹏
• Bring 2 ropes for a single, two-rope rappel.

o A6:
• 5.10b, 50 meters
• Trad
• FFA: 伍鹏, 小河
• Bring 2 ropes for a single, two-rope rappel.
o Both of these routes seem to ascend better rock than the nearby multipitch arête climb. That being said, very little information exists on Western climbing sites about routes like these. Judging by the rock in the area, these two routes might also be able to be climbed all the way to the top of the cliff.

Getting There

Walking down through the Guoliang Tunnel, you will exit and head towards a series of paved switchbacks. If you are going downhill, there will be a turnout/small parking lot on your left. Just ahead you will encounter the first switchback. At the turn there will be a work dirt path that goes up into the woods. Follow the path and it will eventually put you along a rudimentary stone path running a a few hundred feet from the base of the cliff. Follow the path until you are beneath the area you desire to approach. Many times, you have to follow faint animal trails and bushwhack a bit in order to get to the base of the cliff proper.

3 Total Climbs

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