Asia Rock Climbing
|GPS:||43.174, 77.024 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||160 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||Riley Jordan on Apr 22, 2013|
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DescriptionThis is a small crag located about 10 minutes south of Almaty, Kazakhstan. There are several "anchors" for top roping that are reached by scrambling climbers left of the main wall. Anchors consist of 1" rebar and a metal plate that are drilled into the rock, I was a bit scared of them at first but they are quite sturdy. Regardless, I always double-check the anchors. Although the wall is riddled with bolts, there is only one line that looks safe to lead. It is located on the right side of the main wall. Also on the right is a dirty crack that could be lead on trad but the top-out is a bit sketchy. It seems like a poor trad route so I have no desire to lead it, it's fine on TR. I have also seen a little potential for bouldering but haven't explored it.
In this area, the rock tends to be fairly loose/rotten but the amount of traffic at this crag has cleaned it up nicely. Climbs are mostly in the 5.6-5.9 range with a few harder moves that tend to be toward the top and right. The abundance of anchors allow for many route variations and climbing styles. From jugs, to roofs, cracks, crimps and stemming, there is something for everyone. To beat the crowds, weekdays are best. Avoid mid-day on the weekends, the place is a zoo!
Getting ThereIf you're taking a taxi (500-1000 KZT) or driving from the city, here are your directions. From the cross streets of Dostyk Ave. and Al-Farabi Ave., in Almaty, drive south on Dostyk Ave., toward Shymbulak Ski Resort (Dostyk Ave. eventually turns into Gornaya St but you probably won't notice). The road briefly widens into 4 lanes as it goes through a checkpoint and immediately after, you drive through big metal structures (the Eco Gates). The crag is located on the East (left) side of the road before you pass through the Eco Gates. Drive through the Eco Gates and there will be a U-turn. Turn around and park just beneath the crag. From the intersection of Dostyk Ave. and Al-Farabi Ave, it's a total of 5.5 miles (8.8 km).
The #6 bus is the only one that goes to this point (80-100 KZT) but it can be unreliable and comes every 1/2 hour to every 1.5 hours. If you take 6, there is a bus stop near the Eco Gates. The #29 bus comes every 10 minutes but doesn't go all the way up. Take #29 until it turns around (the Eco Gates are 1.7 miles (2.7 km) up the hill). From there, you can get a gypsy taxi or hike up the road.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season