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Routes in Getu Valley

Blue Spirit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Business in China S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dos Forasteros en la Selva S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dunman S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jiu (Nine) S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ki Di Buzz S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
La Piscineta Cina S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nudel Power S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
RimRim (P1) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wu S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
king of guano S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
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Elevation: 3,101 ft
GPS: 25.678, 106.258 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,089 total · 64/month
Shared By: Joe Freeman on Apr 17, 2013 with updates from Arthur Fernandez and 2 others
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball
Getting weather forecast...

Description

beautiful location bolted by Petzl team and CMDI for RocTrip2011, just check out the free topo guide on Petzl's website.

Some of the more remote crags are a little bit hard to access. It is sometimes necessary to remove bushes or vegetation to find the right trail.
Moreover, some of the routes have been opened several years ago and quick links on the top anchors have not been changed until now. During my last trip there in Feb. 2016, I noted a few rusty quick links that could use a change. It might be good to bring a few spare ones with you if you have the skills to replace them.

As this site is located around a small village in the countryside of China, no one is able to speak English over there. It is still possible to communicate by translating sentences on your smartphone.

Local hostels owners can arrange pick up at the airport for between 600 to 800CNY. It takes around 2 hours and a half to get there by car.

Accommodation usually costs around 30CNY for the night, on a hard bed and without air conditioner in the room. Local breakfast will cost an extra 5CNY, and dinner should not be more expensive than 20CNY as well.

Getting There

Take bus on new highway to Ziyun (N25.75247 E106.08495) from either Guiyang. It's now possible to take direct bus from Guiyang bus station to Ziyun in less than 2 hours. It requires one more hour of minivan from Ziyun to center of GetuHe village (N25.67814 E106.25838). Hotel and a few hostels in the village, all routes within 10-60min walking from center of village.

Great Arch Access

As of October 2016, there are two ways to get into the Great Arch, from the back or the front.

To access the front of the arch, you must buy a climber's ticket, which is valid for 7 days and costs 60 yuan. After purchasing a ticket at the visitor's center, head down the main road to the ferry across the river (2 yuan per person each way). After crossing the river turn right and follow the path along the river, and you will eventually come to a fenced off area where boats are stored. Show your ticket and you will be let in the gate where you can continue to follow the path up into the Great Arch.

The back entrance is part of the "tourist route" which costs 130 yuan to access and includes passage across a bridge at the base of the lower arch. We were told that we could not climb if we entered through this route, but once inside the arch there are no barriers.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Getu Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 3
king of guano
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Blue Spirit
Sport 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
king of guano
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Blue Spirit
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 5 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Getu Valley »

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Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Update (May 2018): The Great Arch area has been closed to climbers due to extensive construction in the Getu valley (not directly affecting the Great Arch area, so not sure why it needs to be closed..). We were told it would reopen around September first. We were allowed to pass the gate "just to take pictures" but ferry was not running due to high water levels, so we weren't able to investigate how seriously they take they are enforcing the climbing ban. Our party was one American and one native Chinese, so miscommunication was not an issue.

As of May 13, 2018, other climbing crags are not affected, though construction impacts enjoyment and ability to hear your partner at the closer crags (i.e., Oliver's Crag, Pussa Yan). Construction is crazy and everywhere -- Getu will be a very different place when it is finished.

As of October 2016, there are two ways to get into the Great Arch, from the back or the front.

To access the front of the arch, you must buy a climber's ticket, which is valid for 7 days and costs 60 yuan. After purchasing a ticket at the visitor's center, head down the main road to the ferry across the river (2 yuan per person each way). After crossing the river turn right and follow the path along the river, and you will eventually come to a fenced off area where boats are stored. Show your ticket and you will be let in the gate where you can continue to follow the path up into the Great Arch.

The back entrance is part of the "tourist route" which costs 130 yuan to access and includes passage across a bridge at the base of the lower arch. We were told that we could not climb if we entered through this route, but once inside the arch there are no barriers. May 15, 2018

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