Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Big Baldy

California > Sequoia & Kings Canyo…
Warning Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Big Baldy is a dome just inside the border of Kings Canyon National Park. If you don't mind a snowy approach you can climb Big Baldy just about year round as most of the climbs face South or West. No matter the season, the view from the summit is an amazing panoramic of the great western divide and the nearby Chimney Rocks.

Big Baldy rarely has climbers so you will probably be sharing the rock with a few lizards and birds. The rock quality is excellent and the climbs are mostly cracks of all difficulties with some clean knob and slab routes thrown in. All climbs (that I know of) lie between "Spine Line" on the northwest face and "Stickup" on the southeast. The rock is great but some of the cracks have lichen or moss from lack of traffic.

Getting There

There are two ways to get to Big Baldy from the Generals Highway.

1) A few miles north of the Montecito Lodge is the Big Baldy trailhead. The trail rises gently for a couple miles to the high point at Big Baldy Peak (8209 ft). An unmaintained trail goes roughly one more mile south to Big Baldy, the dome.

2) (preferred route, but seasonally closed road) From the Generals Highway between the Big Baldy trailhead and the Stony Creek Lodge, take Road 14S29 west. There is a sign that reads "National Forest Organizational Camps, San Joaquin Far Horizons." Follow the main road and signs for about two and a half miles until a split. Go right up the hill (14S33) and take the most used road until you reach a radio/cell phone tower. From the tower hike up to the ridge and Big Baldy will be less than 1/2 mile south.

Once you reach Big Baldy, descend slabs to the base along the west side for most climbs. A few can be reached by a slightly more difficult descent along the east face.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Spine Line
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 2
Drillathon
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
 2
Gully of Descent
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
Young Eagle
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 2
Phrenology
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 1
Free Enterprise
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Welcome to Big Baldy
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
Caught in the Act
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Better Together
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0
 2
Stickup
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Spine Line
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Drillathon
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Gully of Descent
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Young Eagle
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Phrenology
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Free Enterprise
 1
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad
Welcome to Big Baldy
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Caught in the Act
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Better Together
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Stickup
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0 Trad, Aid 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View from the summit with chimney rocks in the foreground
[Hide Photo] View from the summit with chimney rocks in the foreground
View along the West face after descending the slabs.
[Hide Photo] View along the West face after descending the slabs.
Want some crack?
[Hide Photo] Want some crack?
Big Baldy from the south
[Hide Photo] Big Baldy from the south
The whole formation of big baldy (dome) is pretty unique. Descent to the base is to the right or left, depending on what you want to climb, and is quite a ways to the base of the wall.
[Hide Photo] The whole formation of big baldy (dome) is pretty unique. Descent to the base is to the right or left, depending on what you want to climb, and is quite a ways to the base of the wall.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Limpingcrab DJ
Middle of CA
[Hide Comment] More info can be found at sekiclimbing.com/big-baldy.… Dec 1, 2016
[Hide Comment] Cool crag in a cool setting but I might recommend Little Baldy to any climbers with a limited amount of time. Jun 24, 2022